These Thai foods define the country’s culinary scene.

A Muslim ruler noticed that his subjects broke their fasts during Ramadan with meat, often causing digestive problems.

He asked his doctor to concoct a culinary antidote.

Illustration of Thai dish Laab

Northern-style laab.Illustration by Romane Mendes

It has since become a fixture of restaurants like theMichelin-two-starred Sorn, in Bangkok.

When Eitharong is craving massaman, he heads toBangkoksYommana Mutton Shop.

But som tum pla rah is rooted in the culture of the Isan region, in the countrys northeast.

Illustration of Thai dish khao yum

Khao yum, an aromatic Thai rice salad.Illustration by Romane Mendes

The best place to try it?The Nampu Night Marketin downtown Chanthaburi, McDang says.

A version of this story first appeared in the December 2024 / January 2025 issue ofTravel + Leisure.

Illustration of massaman curry in a bowl

Massaman curry with coconut milk, peanuts, and potatoes.Illustration by Romane Mendes

Illustration of Thai dish som tum pla rah

Laotian-style som tum.Illustration by Romane Mendes

Illustration of Thai dish khao kluk prik kluea

Khao kluk prik kluea, a rice and seafood dish.Illustration by Romane Mendes