Savoring French flavors on a new gastronomic trail between Marseille and Dijon.
After taking my seat by the window, I ordered the eight-course Passedat tasting menu.
Anais Boileau
Each dish told a story.
Chef Gérald Passedat carrying the day’s catch to his restaurant.Credit:Christophe Simon/AFP/Getty Images
The amuse-bouche had a seafood broth that was as blue as the cerulean waters outside.
Ive worked with the local fishermen for many years.
The trail celebrates family-run businesses and small-batch artisans that visitors might not otherwise encounter.
The restaurant Hélène Darroze à Villa La Coste, which overlooks Château La Coste’s art-filled grounds.Anaïs Boileau
With only three days to spare, I focused on the lower half of the trail.
Boats swayed mast-to-mast and fishermen sold their catch in the fish market.
In the morning, I visited a century-old truffle market in nearby Richerenches.
Truffle hunting with Rémi Monteillet at Domaine de Montine.Courtesy of Domaine de Montine
I was accompanied by Jean-Luc and Remi Monteillet, whose family own Domaine de Montine.
Before leaving the market, we stopped at a food truck.
I ordered a corn veloute soup, which was hearty, warm, and perfumed with truffles.
From left: Lavender fields in the village of Grignan; the lobby at Villa La Coste.From left: Tree4Two/iStock/Getty Images; Anaïs Boileau
We stopped after she found four walnut-size pieces.
Michelas moved from barrel to barrel, drawing wine and passionately describing the method and terroir at each stop.
Standing amid stacks of dusty bottles and aging barrels, I savored the Viognier and the Syrah.
From left: “Poissons du Sud,” a dish at Le Petit Nice Passedat, in Marseille; the Old Port in Marseille.From left: Richard Haughton/Courtesy of Le Petit Nice Passedat; Juliette Charvet
Here are four more of our picks.
Jars of Burgundy snails are ready for purchase.
Moulin Saint Michel: This ancient mill in Mouries has been making olive oil the same way since 1744.
From left: Beekeeping at Domaine Michelas St. Jemms; a melon dish at Hélène Darroze à Villa La Coste.From left: From left: Courtesy of Michelas St. Jemms; Bernhard Winkelmann/Courtesy of Hélène Darroze
It also sells tapenade, jams, and other local products.