With Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences, Albania’s rich culinary culture is attracting visitors from around the world.
Through much pantomiming, he told me he had been cooking with this technique for seven years.
Tila expertly carved off a small piece of meat and held it out for me to try.
From left: Waterfront guest bungalows at AgriTourism Huqi, located a half-hour’s drive from the capital, Tirana; at Agroturizëm Gjepali, in western Albania, lunch includes lamb shoulder with baked potatoes and cherry tomatoes, meatballs, savory custard pie, and shish kebabs.Credit:Armand Habazaj
The ideology holds that a home belongs first to guests and God, and then to the owner.
The urban environment quickly gave way to centuries-old castles proudly protruding from hillsides.
My destination was Agroturizem Gjepali, a farm thats been in Fundim Gjepalis family since the late 1800s.
From left: At AgriTourism Huqi, Bedri Tila prepares lamb in an underground oven; preserving sundried tomatoes at Mrizi i Zanave.Armand Habazaj
(The nearby town, Gjepalaj, was named after his ancestors.)
The propertys story traces a dark chapter of Albanias history.
Thirty years after Communism, we are still emerging, Gjepali said of his country.
From left: A guest takes in the scenery at AgriTourism Huqi; a dessert sampling at Mullixhiu includes yogurt cake with pomegranate, a “kadaif pipe,” and custard served in an eggshell.Armand Habazaj
It was unfair for the story of my familys home to end as it did, he told me.
During his time in Italy, Gjepali held on to the dream of returning and reclaiming the land.
It was warm and thick, with the richness of melted ice cream.
Dinner service at Mullixhiu restaurant, in Tirana.Armand Habazaj
Now people trust that Albanian wine can be good, she said.
Meanwhile, the family has set aside land with plans to start a winery someday.
But he hopes that small-scale tourism can preserve the countrys character and values.
Sheep graze in Vlorë county, in southern Albania.Armand Habazaj
His goal now at Mullixhiu is to get people to fall in love with the country through their stomachs.
I can make it happen, Kola said.
All I need are my pans and a pot and a fire.
At Mrizi i Zanave, staff member Valmira Topalli cleans the rind of a one-year-old goat cheese.Armand Habazaj
Even in urban Tirana, Kola supports Albanian agriculture through his sourcing.
But hes emphatic that tourism should be sustainable and beneficial to everyone involved.
Our industry must not be mass tourism, he said.
Inside one of the rooms at Mrizi I Zanave’s renovated guesthouse.Armand Habazaj
The best things we can offer are food, food culture, and nature.
When I arrived, a cheerful waiter led me through the low-slung brick building, explaining its history.
Standing in the modern tasting room, I felt as though I might be in Tuscany or Napa.
With shouts ofGezuar!they raised their glasses in a toast.
The restaurant uses produce from the surrounding organic orchards and fields.
Floor-to-ceiling glass walls offer views of the surrounding countryside.
Dishes range from zucchini salad to quail in plum sauce.
Locations are available as a list or on a map.
