Its not easy to travel to Papua New Guinea.
Previously thought to be uninhabited, it was actually the most densely populated regiona colossal anthropological discovery.
With its unique topography, prolific birdlife, and remote indigenous cultures, PNG had long captured my imagination.
Credit: Getty Images
Our flight had been set up byAudley Travel, which handled all logistics after we arrived in PNG.
Fortunately, I was quicker and slipped aside.
Locals who viewed the would-be-thiefs attempt badly beat him right there.
The cloud forest surrounding Wasana Hunting Camp.Blake Everson/Courtesy of Black Tomato
Later I learned that security arrived and continued pummeling the man.
Bearing witness to this display of extrajudicial justice was a strange, powerful moment.
This lowland rainforest in the East Sepik province foothills is as far off the grid as imaginable.
The cloud forest surrounding Wasana Hunting Camp.Blake Everson/Courtesy of Black Tomato
These groups exist with virtually no outside influenceother than the occasional intrepid travelerprecisely as they have for generations.
Across the river was Kundiman Village, inhabited by the Yokoium tribe.
The women were topless, some of them breastfeeding.
Julie L. Kessler
Besides clay, the men were adorned with only leaves, feathers, and penis gourds.
In every village we visited, throngs of school-aged children were present.
However, education, even primary, isnt compulsory.
Julie L. Kessler
In the morning, after leaving Manjami Village, we headed upriver to Konmae Village.
Lush trees and the seemingly never-ending horizon stretched out as far as the eye could see.
A teenaged girl in a canoe glided by with a cuscusa honey-colored marsupialatop her head.
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After lunch on the pontoon, we stopped at the Tanganbit Village, home to the Alamblack tribe.
Returning later to the lodge, I had a cold shower and a warm beer.
I would have preferred those temperatures reversed, but that warm beer tasted like fine cognac.
Flying southeast with heavy clouds the next day, Captain Bob took the Beechcraft up to 13,000 feet.
My hearts loud thumping distracted me from the marvelous vistas.
Finally we arrived at the incredibly remote Hela province and its tiny capital, Tari.
Later, we went in search of birds-of-paradise, for which the province is known.
He boasted of his three wives and ten children, a reflection of his elevated tribal position.
It’s a major badge of honor to wear a wig of your own hair.
I ventured to PNG to glimpse life utterly unchanged by modernity, and the country didn’t disappoint.
In their traditions and adornments Papuans possess a key to their colorful past.
Restricted, round-trip airfare begins at $2,165, including taxes and fees.
Domestic air travel is best arranged by tour operator or local ground agent.
Local Guides
Nine-day custom tours with Audley start at $6,950.
Longer customAudley toursare also available.
Where to Stay
Airways HotelJackson International Airport,Jacksons Parade,Port Moresby, 121.
Request a room in the new wing.
Generator electricity is turned off at 10 p.m. No air conditioning, phones, or internet service.
No heating but electric blankets are provided, and no phones.
Also, leave all jewelry, dressy clothes, and make-up at home.
Think utility, not fashion.
Luggage can be stored until return at Port Moresby hotels.
Most lodges have low-cost laundry service; two or three changes of clothing will suffice.
To Learn More
Embassy of Papua New Guinea,info@pngembassy.org, (202) 745-3680.
For general information and trip planning,www.papuanewguinea.travel/usa
