Khadija Farah
As a Black American, Ive always been fascinated by the continent of Africa.
Perhaps this is why my interest in Africa has always been more about people, rather than animals.
Well, after two years of pandemic confinement, the outdoors beckoned like never before.
A herd of elephants in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, as seen on safari with the Bushcamp Company.Credit:Khadija Farah
And yet,I wasnt sure what to expect of Zambia.
She choreographs an adventure.
I prefer authentic safaris, she said.
From left: Setting off through the bush on a nature walk at Mfuwe, a Bushcamp Company lodge in South Luangwa; at Kapamba, sundowners are served midstream in the Luangwa River.Khadija Farah
Theres something exciting waiting for you.
That something was a pair of elephants, affectionately referred to as ellies by the folks at the lodge.
I could have sworn he saluted us with his trunk before trotting ahead to join his mother.
Giraffe-spotting in South Luangwa National Park.Khadija Farah
Yet each encounter felt like a miracle, and none was more enchanting than this pachyderm welcoming party.
The safari portion of my trip had begun.
The Bushcamp Company operates three lodges and six camps.
The Bushcamp Company’s Chindeni camp.Khadija Farah
I began at Mfuwe, which I nicknamed The Mothership.
But the words and images on the pages could not compete with the parade of creatures only yards away.
I must have been thirteen at the time, he recalled.
Lolebezi, on the Zambezi River, is one of Zambia’s newest—and most luxurious—safari lodges.Khadija Farah
I wanted to handle the birds, see them in more detail.
The camp photographer, Aaron Mwale, is a native of Lusaka, the Zambian capital.
I have seen a black rhino only once, Banda said.
Breakfast is served at Lolebezi.Khadija Farah
I was a boy and my grandmother called me outside.
I ran to the door and saw him disappearing into the bush.
On our first ride that afternoon, we drove slowly, keeping our eyes peeled.
From left: A lion taking a break on the banks of the Zambezi, as seen on a sunset boat tour; a guest tent at Kapamba, one of the Bushcamp Company’s nine properties in Zambia.Khadija Farah
Very interesting, he would mutter.
The sun began to sink, and Banda steered the jeep to the east.
I have a good feeling, he said as he parked near the base of a bridge.
From left: Village women attend a Direct Impact Africa sewing class in Chiawa; Chieftainess Chiawa, the head of a tribal community near the Kiambi Safaris lodge.Khadija Farah
I nibbled on dried mango as we observed a troop of baboons chattering among themselves.
As their volume increased, Banda gave a triumphant smile.
There, he exclaimed, pointing.
Hippos cool off in a lagoon in South Luangwa.Khadija Farah
In addition to the abundant wildlife, the parks vegetation is miraculous.
Sausage trees, named for the cylindrical fruits drooping from their branches, seemed to be everywhere we looked.
But the baobab trees are the real signature of this landscape.
From left: A wild dog in Lower Zambezi National Park licks its lips after a hunt; tomatoes grown at the Bushcamp Company’s garden at Mfuwe.Khadija Farah
Standing up to 100 feet tall, their leafless branches cut striking figures against the deep blue sky.
The base of each had been scarred by hungry elephants, who crave the nutrients in the baobabs bark.
Somehow, the complexity of this ecosystem resurrected the science nerd inside me.
Water lilies on the Zambezi river.Khadija Farah
But they dont have leaves for eight months of the year.
How do they conduct photosynthesis?
Banda collected a couple of large pods that had fallen from the tree and shook out a few seeds.
He popped one into his mouth and the rest of us followed suit.
Savoring the tart flavor, we went on our way.
After four days at Mfuwe, I had seen four out of five.
Only the rhino was missing.
Then he motioned that I shouldpick up my binoculars.
I caught the brilliant bird in my sights just in time to observe its spiraling courtship dance.
He is enjoying life!
It was hard not to enjoy life with the Bushcamp crew.
And though breakfast is simple porridge, toast, and eggs dinner each evening was worth the wait.
On my final night in South Luangwa I visited KuKaya, the newest lodge in the Bushcamp family.
There I was presented with an exquisite Indian feast, prepared on the spacious patio of my private villa.
We grow all the food served at the camps, he said as we toured acres of well-kept crops.
Tomatoes hung from the rows of vines like Christmas ornaments.
Eggplants caught the glare of the sun, shining like mirrors.
Bushes of wild lavender attracted pollinators, humming and buzzing.
As he waved his arms, I looked up at the dark green foliage overhead.
Tons, he said.
The crop falls to the ground and rots, attracting elephants, drawn to the bounty.
Would you like to see the school?
Hogg asked, gesturing toward a group of shipping containers.
Such ingenuity, I was beginning to realize, is a Bushcamp Company signature.
For the record, no one in Zambia calls it the Zambezi River.
You always say The Mighty Zambezi.
But despite the many accoutrements, the vibe is warm and approachable.
You see these elephants?
They dont care what side of the river is which country, Beks said.
What they know is that this is the world.
On my final day at Lolebezi, he insisted on guiding my morning game drive.
However, many of the trees, stripped of their bark by elephants, have withered in the fields.
In ten years, Beks predicted, this entire forest will be gone.
The grass underneath our boots snapped as we walked carefully in one anothers footsteps.
At the head of the line, Beks scanned the bush in every direction.
Then, in a hushed voice, he said Lion, and pointed to the east.
I promised you a lion, Beks said, flashing a brilliant smile.
And I have given you three.
Along the banks, massive crocodiles kept watch.
At the top of the climb were a group of thoughtfully placed campaign chairs.
Its a tradition, you know, drinking beer on the river, Woods told me.
I didnt know, but I played along.
Like this, she said, showing me how to greet the chieftainess by kneeling and clapping.
Chickens pecked at the dirt floor as I did my best to follow along.
Woods frowned at my efforts: You should cup your hands, she said.
Lets hit it one more time.
Finally, we were beckoned to another thatched hut.
Learning that I was on a tour of the safari lodges of Zambia, Chiawa was clearly pleased.
You cannot underestimate the consequence this has had on Zambian peoples lives, she told me.
A poultry outfit operates under the cheeky banner Chics for Chicks.
At Simbarashe Womans Co-Op we were treated to a childrens dance performance.
Earlier in the day I visited a farm operated by a dozen or so women.
Their planting field was protected by electric fencing and watered by an irrigation system.
To grow their enterprise, they would need more fencing, solar panels, and irrigation equipment.
All these things require money, of which there is precious little.
Although it is located just down the river from Lolebezi, the two properties could not be more different.
Kiambi has always been a product that is accessible to the people.
In the middle of our conversation, Woods excused herself to take a call on her cell phone.
Yes, Your Highness, she said.
Then she rushed to the kitchen, giving urgent instructions.
At dinner that evening, I noticed a Zambian family laughing among themselves.
As a waiter passed, he stopped in his tracks.
I squinted, then gasped.
There, seated at the back of the dining room, was the chieftainess and her extended family.
I wasnt sure if I should make my way to her table.
Does one intrude upon a chieftainess as she dines?
Then, to my surprise, she made the first move.
I hopped up and performed the ceremonial kneel-and-clap.
Are you enjoying your visit?
Yes, maam, I said, slipping into my Southern manners.
(I would later kick myself for not saying Yes, Your Highness.)
After dinner I went outside and sat in a sturdy wooden chair.
Woods, relaxing with a South African Pinotage, sat beside me.
We decided that we needed to start developing our staff, Woods explained.
At Mfuwe Lodge, elephants walk through the open-walled lobby.
Kiambi Safaris: A relaxed, family-friendly property located at the confluence of the Lower Zambezi and Kafue rivers.
Accommodation ranges from air-conditioned chalets to camping packages.
Explore Inc. can also arrange visits to womens cooperatives and other social enterprises.
