Over the past few years, Korean culture has been captivating every corner of the globe.
Here’s how Korean-born author R.O.
Kwon visits her home city.
Gyeongbokgung Palace, built in 1395 as the residence of the Joseon dynasty.Credit:Youngkyu Park
Its a gloriously chaotic tumult of tall, shining buildings and tiledhanokroofs, all of it surrounded by mountains.
Cherry trees had burst forth, a frothing revel of short-lived blossoms.
So, joining this flood of visitors, I went back to my birthplace.
From left: The guests-only lounge at the Signiel Seoul; udae galbi, or beef ribs, at the popular Mongtan barbecue restaurant.Youngkyu Park
Excited as I felt, I was also fretful.
In one of the first taxis I took this time, though, the driver and I talked.
There are many moregyopo,or diasporic Koreans, in Seoul these days, he said.
From left: The entrance to the Signiel Seoul hotel at the base of Lotte World Tower; Eatanic Garden, a restaurant in the Josun Palace hotel, serves (clockwise from top) a box of sweets, smoked tofu topped with caviar, and fatsia shoots.Youngkyu Park
He praised my Korean.
Its not very good, I said, ashamed again.
No, youre fluent, he said, being kind, and I teared up.
Chefs Sung-bae Park (left) and Eun-hee Cho prepare bujak, or deep-fried vegetables, at their restaurant, Onjium.Youngkyu Park
Cherry trees had burst forth, a frothing revel of short-lived blossoms.
I requested the signature dish,udae kalbi,or beef rib.
I finished it, and asked for seconds.
From left: An installation by Boma Pak (foreground), a hanging fabric sculpture by Hannah Woo, and a painting by Rondi Park (on the far wall) at the Art Sonje Center gallery; northern Seoul, with Bukhansan National Park in the distance, as seen from the Art Sonje Center.Youngkyu Park
Id have left satisfied no, delighted by just thebanchan,but now the rib was ready.
Since I am also not a moderate person, I asked for morekalbi.
I ate it all.
The 123-story Lotte World Tower, home of the Signiel Seoul hotel, rises over Lotte World Magic Island, an amusement park.Youngkyu Park
But after that lunch, I had to nap, so I shut them and lay down.
Recently, Park was a national finalist in the World Class Cocktail Festival, dubbed the Oscars of bartending.
Participating in competitions is a good time to develop ones skills, she said.
Mixologist Medhi Hong at Zest, a cocktail bar in the Gangnam neighborhood.Youngkyu Park
I talked about Andong with Danny Park, a bartender who lived in Arizona before returning to Seoul.
Going home, I stopped at an all-night convenience store and bought a bag of shredded dried squid.
It was a perfect, salty ending to the evening.
The pool at the Josun Palace hotel.Youngkyu Park
This is what I kept hearing: a lot of Koreans whove lived elsewhere are returning.
Theyre combining what theyve learned in Korea and abroad, and the results are fascinating.
I am, Ill admit, a bit skeptical of facials.
But more important, what did it do to my skin?
It was so soft.
I glowed as if the epidermal cells had transformed into tiny stars.
Were constantly educating ourselves, she said.
Onjium is led by chefs Eun-hee Cho and Sung-bae Park; Cho is deeply versed in Koreas culinary past.
Onjium researches traditional food by referring to passed-down literature, historical materials, and ancient cookbooks, she said.
Then we find and showcase Korean food that has been forgotten in history.
Onjiums abalonejuk,or porridge, was made with stir-fried abalone simmered at length with a sticky rice ball.
It was a subtle, complex dish Id love to eat every morning.
Shes lived in Seoul for years, so I had asked her to help shape my itinerary.
Over cups of green tea, Lee and I talked about how quickly Seoul is changing.
This is a recognizable impulse to me, one that can be both motivating and utterly exhausting.
By the same token, it is, perhaps, always possible to bring us shame.
Lee and I laughed about this as we had tea that was delicious and, well, prize-winning.
At Art Sonje, a private museum, I spoke with assistant curator Sohyun Kim.
I could joyfully have spent a week with Seouls art, but I was hungry again.
I ate more than I should, then went back to the hotel.
I took with me a friend who doesnt speak Korean.
It was lunchtime, and the restaurant was busy.
The steamed crab legs arrived.
My friend ordered soju; I remained silent.
You speak Korean, dont you?
she asked, setting her hands on my shoulders.
I had no poker face.
My plan failed; I folded.
I had to conduct research!
It was rich and complex, with such depth and flavor that I found myself tearing up again.
May that be soon.
I dont live in Seoul, but its still, always, a kind of home.
Stay, the hotels French restaurant, might make the softest, creamiest eggs Ive ever eaten.
The kitchen serves ethereal, reinvented Korean food.
Ask to sit by the windows for an expansive city view.
Le Chamber: Push a book to open a secret door and reveal this handsome speakeasy in Gangnam.
If its not too busy, the bartenders will be glad to mix you a bespoke cocktail.
Theres gorgeous pottery on display, as well as an inspiration room downstairs where the chefs go for ideas.
Osulloc Tea House: This chain of modern teahouses serves hot and cold teas and desserts.
It might be hectic, but you’re free to get a cup to go.
It also offers excellent gifts to take home.
Zest: This minimalist Gangnam bar is a sustainable, waste-reducing operation.
Even the bars raw honey comes from urban beekeepers.
The museum prioritizes the work of young artists.
As long as you dont go during opening or closing time, it shouldnt be too crowded.
Leesle: A tiny, colorful store in Hongdae with contemporary hanbok clothing loved by K-pop stars.
Youll leave glowing and relaxed.
