9 a.m. in Casablanca: Its hot, its loud, its congested.

Palm trees line the boulevards; smog and dust from construction sites cloud the air.

The Atlantic Ocean gleams blue beyond.

Avenue Moulay Hassan I with commercial buildings including a sidewalk cafe and shops. People walk in square. The network provides access between the city centre and the seaside suburb of Ain Diab and the Casa Voyageurs Station

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Looking out over the urban sprawl, one could easily mistake it for Los Angeles.

But at street level, Casablanca is distinctly post-colonial.

It lacks the layer of Instagrammable gloss thats been laid over Marrakesh, Essaouira, and Fez.

Sunset in the white washed streets of downtown Casablanca, Morocco

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But Casablancas refusal to cater to Western tourists' tastes is exactly what makes it interesting.

Contemporary art spaces celebrate young, local talent.

DJs channel the sounds of AfrikaBurn (Africas regional Burning Man event).

Woman vendor chats to a male customer. On display are trays of seaweed, clams and crab. In background are pictures of seafood including clams and langoustine plus a sign of the stand with ‘Seafood at Zoubida Zou Zou’s"

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And the markets are meant for locals buying groceries, rather than tourists buying prized Berber rugs.

Once on the ground, the best way to get around is in Casablancas taxis.

Grande taxis go to and from the airport and petit taxis are for commutes inside the city.

Two women in traditional Moroccan dress walk through the streets of the old medina in Casablanca, Morocco

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Be aware that taxi drivers in Casablanca often attempt to hustle Western tourists for high fares.

A taxi from one end of Casablanca to the other shouldnt cost more than $5.

Where to eat

Breakfast:Dine al-fresco in the sheltering garden ofLa Sqala.

Inner courtyard of the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca. Entrance doors on the right.

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Monstrously-sized lobsters will furnish a luxe meal for 2 to 4 people.

Dinner, drinks, and music:Le Cabestanis the citys most notable nightclub and fine dining establishment.

Moneyed locals smoke over bottle service, while young local DJs spin house records all night long.

Spice sacks at a market stall in the old medina in Casablanca, Morocco

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(Note that you must be appropriately dressed for entry.)