A chorus of frogs and toads sang in the surrounding jungle as my husband joined me in the water.
In the distance, I could hear waves crashing on the beach.
With a splash, our teenage daughter dove into the pool.
From left: A doorman at Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena, built as a convent in 1621; a view of the pool at Sofitel Legend Santa Clara.Sofia Jaramillo
The four-year-old Casa Bambu sits in the jungle at the foot of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains.
Even in the tropical heat, a chill went up my spine.
I was ready to rediscover my country, too.
From left: Tour guide Victor Alfonso Miranda Salgado, in San Basilio de Palenque; traditional drums at the studio of Kombilesa Mi, a well-known band from San Basilio de Palenque.Sofia Jaramillo
Were rediscovering our country, he said.
Colombiais made up of six regions, their borders naturally formed by mountains, rivers, and jungle.
Each area has its own distinct culture, ecosystem, and climate.
From left: Fresh-cooked seafood at Cartagena’s open-air Bazurto Market; a hat vendor on Marbella Beach, in Cartagena.Sofia Jaramillo
This didnt bother him; he told us that this leisurely pace is part of the local culture.
We call them the Elder Brothers, Sierra explained, because theyve been in the area for so long.
Lime from the shells activates the coca, giving a mellow high.
From left: Décor in the Sofitel Barú Calablanca’s lobby nods to the nearby National Aviary of Colombia; a guest cools off in the pool at Casa San Agustín, in Cartagena.Sofia Jaramillo
He talked slowly, a rhythm we were becoming accustomed to.
Looking at the slope of Arroyos nose, I wondered if my DNA carried any Indigenous code.
Arroyos wife, also carrying a mochila, showed us how to make a bag.
A view from a rooftop in Cartagena’s historic center. The San Pedro Claver monastery is on the right, and the Bay of Cartagena and modern Bocagrande district are in the distance.Sofia Jaramillo
When our needles got tangled in the yarn, she chuckled and unpicked our mistaken stitches.
My husband, daughter, and I were among the few Americans at the resort.
This mix of magic and legend is what I love about Colombia.
From left: The beach outside Casa Bambú Tayrona hotel, on the Caribbean Sea; hostess Maria Del Carmen at Restaurante Candé, in Cartagena.Sofia Jaramillo
Its one thing about this country that hasnt changed and probably never will.
Calablanca is nothing like that.
When we werent eating, we alternated between the manicured beach and one of three infinity pools.
From left: Guest cabins at Casa Bambú Tayrona; a waitress delivers cocktails at Sofitel Barú Calablanca Beach Resort.Sofia Jaramillo
The Santa Clara was built as a convent in the 17th century.
Now recast as a luxury resort, the building has retained much of its original architectural charm.
As with many things in Colombia, there may be a logical explanation for this or not.
Salad and the fish of the day (red snapper) at Sofitel Barú Calablanca.Sofia Jaramillo
Even we dont know whats true anymore, the butler said.
San Basilio de Palenque is an Afro-Colombian community about an hour inland from Cartagena.
As we crossed the square, we passed another group of tourists.
Were happy when visitors come, Bembele told us.
The community of 3,500 has perfected the art of catering to outsiders, who help to support the economy.
I gazed up at the blue sky beyond the red tiled roofs.
They use songs like this to teach both Colombian and international visitors.
Kusa ta bien (I am fine), we repeated clumsily.
My husband and daughter took turns attempting the drumming patterns of thechalupa,an upbeat traditional rhythm.
Our hosts laughed along with us or maybe at us.
I didnt mind exchanging a few pesos for a little Colombian magic.
I plunged into the L-shaped pool and skimmed through the water, rinsing away the heat of the day.
Cartagena comes alive when the sun sets, and after dinner we wandered through the narrow streets.
My daughter stopped in a shop to buy a locally made white cotton sundress and her own brown mochila.
Shes proud of her Colombian heritage.
And so am I. Casa San Agustin:The architecture at this sophisticated boutique hotel in Cartagena includes 17th-century frescoes and exposed-beam ceilings.
Sofitel Baru Calablanca Beach Resort:On the Isla Baru peninsula, 187 rooms face the Caribbean Sea.
Perks include four pools and a childcare center.
Where to Eat
Alma:One of the best restaurants in Cartagena.
