Wine and conversation flow on a slow tour of the natural vineyards in Spains Castilla y Leon.

James Jackman

The air was thick with the smell of yeast and morning dew.

Wine isnt as glamorous as people think, said de la Vina, who leads the tours himself.

Pair of photos from Daniel ramos winery in Spain, one showing a glass of wine being poured, and one showing a loaf of bread

From left: Pouring an organic red at Daniel Ramos winery; breaking bread at the winery’s tasting room.Credit:James Jackman

Wine is about history and people.

Considering that the wines were made with Tempranillo grapes, they tasted surprisingly light and refreshing.

Calvos affection for the native grape, and the town, is evident.

Pair of photos from Spain, one showing paella, and one showing the hillside

From left: Paella at Bodegas Bigardo; the hillside farms around Bodegas Coruña del Conde.James Jackman

Im in love with Toro, he said as he savored his own creation.

There were more feasts to be had.

For lunch, we headed to a small cinder-block warehouse in the town of Tiemplo.

People sitting around a lunch table in a vineyard

A family-style lunch with Daniel Ramos (center).James Jackman

And its exactly how a Spanish meal should be.

I was sitting in a plastic chair in a warehouse, surrounded by pallets and barrels.

My boots were dusty from trudging through vineyards.

A group of people hiking through a pine tree forest in Spain

Hiking near the town of El Tiemblo.James Jackman

Seven-day trips withSelections de la Vinafrom $4,700, all-inclusive.

Two men in a wine cellar inspecting glasses of wine

James Jackman.Álvaro de la Viña (left), who led the author’s tour, at MicroBio Wines, and Ismael Gozalo, the winery’s owner.

Pair of photos from spain, one showing a man drinking wine from a porron, and one showing people touring a wine cellar

From left: Drinking wine from a porrón; touring the cellar at MicroBio Wines.James Jackman

Pair of photos from Spain, one showing a woman walking in a street, and one showing wine and cheese and charcuterie

From left: Exploring Coruña del Conde; a tasting at Coruña del Conde.James Jackman

A woman walking through rows of young vines at a winery in Spain

The vineyard at Bodegas Bigardo.James Jackman

Pair of photos from Spain, one showing wine in jugs, and one showing a street scene

From left: Jugs of wine at Bodegas Coruña del Conde; the narrow streets of Coruña del Conde.James Jackman