The country roads were unlit, our path illuminated by nothing but the moon and stars.
Our only sense of place came from the smell of roses that hung heavy in the air.
“Because then you are pleasantly surprised when you wake up.”
A dog explores near the countryside near the village of Gela.Marco Argüello
In the pale morning light of May, this corner of Bulgaria is old-world bucolic.
(The estate has its own wine label.)
“This is really the concept,” Kirov explained.
The pool at Zornitza Family Estate.Marco Argüello
“To create a place where guests are in full harmony with the great nature we have.”
Kirov was happy to indulge my curiosity.
(Neither, thankfully, was on display during our walk.)
From left: Alexander Bachvarov at Villa Gella, his luxury guesthouse in the Rhodopes; a café-lined street in Kapana, the arts district of Plovdiv.Marco Argüello
Before long, a steaming cheese-topped loaf arrived on a wooden plank.
This wasbohcha,a dish so good I didn’t wait for the heat to subside before digging in.
Luckily there was plenty of chilled rakia, the Balkan fruit brandy, to cool me down.
From left: National Revival–style houses in Plovdiv’s old town; In the Rhodope Mountains, the hills are alive with the sound of gaida, or traditional bagpipes, shown here at Villa Gella.Marco Argüello
I rolled down the windows and breathed in the damp forest air as rivers and trees rushed past.
Black-and-white-striped domes curve upward, the restored frescoes within painted in vivid colors.
After just a few days in the countryside, I had gotten used to being surrounded by abundant nature.
From left: Ceiling frescoes at Rila Monastery; wildflowers in the Rhodope Mountains.Marco Argüello
Of course, Bulgaria’s Communist past looms large in the imagination of Americans.
“It was short, but it completely changed the lives and mindsets of Bulgarians.”
Buteven Sofiates will tell you the most beautiful city in Bulgaria is Plovdiv.
The Melnik Pyramids, a series of rock formations in southwestern Bulgaria.Marco Argüello
The layers, of course, remain.
“Evmolpus was a Thracian king and famous warlord who could talk with the gods.”
Ah there’s that Bulgarian mysticism again.
From left: Half of Adam & Eve, a sculpture by Sofia-born artist Pavel Koychev, on the grounds of Zornitza Family Estate; Aestivum, Zornitza’s restaurant, sources ingredients from the estate’s farm, orchards, and gardens.Marco Argüello
“Well, wearelocated in the middle of the most fertile lands in Bulgaria!”
The entirety of Plovdiv, particularly the old town, exudes a kind of fairy-tale romance.
A gaggle of schoolchildren entered at the same time we did, shrieking with delight.
“This isn’t even the most impressive thing to see here,” one blase Plovdivite told us.
“You should go to the Bishop’s Basilica.”
The entirety of Plovdiv, particularly the old town, exudes a kind of fairy-tale romance.
Bulgaria has some of the most well-preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy or Greece.
The Bishop’s Basilica of Philippopolis is a notable exception.
In 1982, roadwork accidentally unearthed stunning Late Antique mosaics dating back to the fourth through sixth centuries.
Exquisite geometric patterns and birds unfolded underfoot.
What to do in the face of so much beauty?
It’s something new for Plovdiv, but the nightly crowds would indicate that people can’t get enough.
“You feel very proud, you know?”
Colors flashed from pink to red, and the smell drifting through the car windows was intoxicating.
No one spoke English, but that didn’t impact their generosity.
“Dionysus was Thracian,” said Peyto Nikolov as he poured yet another glass of homemade natural wine.
The liquid sparkled in my glass like a ruby.
He smiled and shrugged good-naturedly.
The last sips of wine were drunk at a speed that would have made Dionysus proud.
The weather was mythologically on point thunder rumbled in the distance, and the sky turned a steely gray.
Bachvarov warned that the place has a particularly deadly allure.
In the 1970s, two Bulgarian divers set out to solve the mystery of the river’s course.
Their bodies were found days later, along with their still-functional scuba tanks.
The coroner determined they had both suffered heart attacks.
(They may have been lovers, a slightly reassuring point at least they died together.)
Since then, no one has properly spelunked the cave’s full depth.
“We want people to have this home-away-from-home feeling.”
Within just a few hours, I felt like I had moved in.
The walls of the chapel were covered in iconography, the colors astonishingly bright, almost psychedelic.
Villa Gella also operates as a bespoke travel agency, able to curate whatever Bulgarian experience your heart desires.
A pancake breakfast on Thracian ruins?
A six-hour tasting of Bulgarian wine varieties?
It’s all possible.
He introduced himself as Nikola Beevski before quietly opening the door and inviting us inside.
The walls of the chapel were covered in iconography, the colors astonishingly bright, almost psychedelic.
Beevski, the artist, told us he had lived in the village of Gela his whole life.
It is waiting for your hands."
He felt an otherworldly urge to rebuild the crumbling structure and later painted the icons with professional precision.
No one in the village questioned his devotion.
“This kind of spirituality is accepted here,” Bachvarov told me as we continued walking.
The conversation turned to music did I know that the bagpipe was originally from the Rhodopes?
A deep, warm sound emerged: OMMM.
Dimitar took the reed out of his mouth and smiled at me.
“This is the sound of the universe.”
All I could do was nod my head in agreement.
Rozhenski Han: A rustic spot for Bulgarian farm cooking and plenty of rounds of rakia.
Call 359-89-827-2757 to book.
Sofia
Hyatt Regency Sofia: This modern hotel is already a favorite for its stylish rooftop lounge.
Raketa Rakia Bar: Communist-era toys, televisions, and other artifacts make this space memorable.
365 Association Tours: Walking tours in the capital with themes like Communist history or Jewish heritage.
Pavaj: Locals love this cozy spot for its updates on traditional recipes and impressive rakia list.
entrees
Bendida: A bottle shop and tasting room that focuses on wines from the region.
Hotel Gela: Rhodopean culinary traditions are the focus of this small hotel’s stellar restaurant.
jay@jaywaytravel.com; 914-500-8984.
