Generations of skiers have known Big Sky as a low-key ski destination.

But with new luxury resorts and tricked-out lifts, word is about to get out.

Mark Hartman

“You have to go to Big Sky is a refrain Ive often heard from fellow skiers.

A skier descending a downhill run

Descending the Liberty Bowl at Big Sky Resort, in Montana.Credit:Mark Hartman

But diehards know what really puts thebiginBig Sky.

ski resort,Big Sky has a unique preponderance of this throw in of advanced terrain.

Ive always joked that if Im not a beautiful skier, I am a brave one.

Pair of photos from Big Sky, one showing an avalanche dog, and one showing snowy mountain peaks

Fron left: Tela, a certified avalanche dog; Fan Mountain, as seen from Lone Peak, at Big Sky.Mark Hartman

(My fiance, Dan, and I also ski in the backcountry in Californias Sierra Nevada.)

Plunging down the 1,400-foot vertical face between bands of unforgiving rock, the skier looks tiny and inconsequential.

Yet he moves with strength and intention, responding to the demands of the terrain.

Pair of photos from Big Sky, one showing a snowy peak and skiers, and one showing a hotel lobby

From left: Skiing the lower section of Pinnacles, an expert run on Lone Peak; the reception area at the Summit Hotel.Mark Hartman

But will I have the skills?

Big Sky is in the midst of a transformation.

He asks if were skiing today if so, hell leave our gear outside for us.

Pair of photos from Big Sky, one showing the shadow of a ski lift, and one showing diners in a wood-paneled restaurant

From left: The shadow of the Swift Current lift; dinner at Cortina.Mark Hartman

We say no, and he checks his watch.

Its 2:15 p.m. You should go, he urges.

We demur, citing work commitments, but hes unimpressed.

Pair of photos from the Montage resort, including the pool, and a guest room

From left: The heated pool at the Montage; a guest room at the resort.Mark Hartman

Its so close, he points out, gesturing at the window.

Indeed it is: theres the lift.

Big Sky is in the midst of a transformation.

Pair of photos from Big Sky, one showing the downtown area at night, and one showing a ski run

From left: Downtown Big Sky; skiers on the Spotted Elk run.Mark Hartman

The town center has grown up, too, into a hip outpost that offers pho and mezcal cocktails.

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Not everyone loves the changes.

Theres a down-to-earth vibe, with a healthy mix of families and young people.

Skiers at the top of the Swift Current lift

The view from the top of the Swift Current lift.Mark Hartman

Even among the well-heeled guests at the Montage, there isnt a flamboyant fur-trimmed puffer in sight.

The Montage is surrounded by mostly beginner runs.

Everything at Big Sky feels new, because a lot of it is.

A guest room in a mountainside hotel

A guest room at the Summit Hotel.Mark Hartman

Suddenly, an odd movement catches my eye.

A teenage-looking skier, dressed in black, is sliding headfirst beneath us.

Hes well over halfway down and still sliding fast.

An edible snowflake decoration on a restaurant dessert

Dessert at Cortina, a northern Italian restaurant at Montage Big Sky.Mark Hartman

Up to this moment, I hadnt thought about how sheer this slope is, but now Im spooked.

Were about to ski Cold Spring, a trail often used as a test run for the Big Couloir.

I called it my mental Rolodex of experience.

Pair of photos from Big Sky, one showing a snowboarder on a slope, and one showing a skier in a cheetah print jacket

From left: Snowboarding down the Gullies, a series of six double-black-diamond runs at Big Sky; skier Hailey Rumore.Mark Hartman

It works: as I start down, I feel surprisingly in control.

When I reach the bottom, Shannon smiles and tells me, Good skiing.

Throughout the day, we intersperse challenging runs with wide-open groomed trails and playful routes between the trees.

Pair of photos from Big Sky, one showing a hotel lobby, and one showing the exterior of a mountain restaurant

From left: Cozying up in the Montage Big Sky lounge; Everett’s 8800, a restaurant at the top of Andesite Mountain.Mark Hartman

In time I find it more rewarding nailing each descent feels like hitting a carefully targeted bulls-eye.

Shannons tips prove to be revelatory on steep bumps, too.

Kircher installed his son John as general manager.

View of a mountain peak from inside a slopeside restaurant

A view of Lone Peak from Everett’s 8800 restaurant.Mark Hartman

The younger Kircher dreamed of building a lift on Lone Peak.

Many told him it would be too complex, and Dad wouldnt approve it.

But Dad was based in Michigan, so one day John just oops ordered a tram.

The original tram that John installed was already a feat of lift engineering.

It will also feature large glass side panels and a glass floor.

To me, the old tram is knee-weakening enough already.

As we ascend, the mountain face is sometimes just a few feet outside the window.

At the top, we walk into a wooden shack where a patroller is assigning time slots.

As we click in to our skis, I give a shot to tamp down my apprehension.

I dig my edges into the slope for reassurance.

The skiing is intimidating, each turn demanding a renewed commitment.

I give a shot to emulate her and focus on good form.

About two-thirds of the way down, my legs are beginning to burn, but I keep moving.

We hoot and tap our poles, and suddenly, more seems possible.

This is the appeal of steep skiing.

His lifes ambition was to be a ski bum, but he ended up becoming a lawyer instead.

Skiing is the most decadent thing you might do on the planet, he says.

Dan eventually goes back to the hotel room, and I stay out on my own.

I find an untouched stretch and paint a long, swishy brushstroke down.

On the best trips, on the best mountains, its both.

Where to Eat

Everetts 8800: Refuel after a morning of skiing at this mountaintop gastropub.

Montana Dinner Yurt: Backcountry dining at its most indulgent, with a side of candlelight and live music.