Generations of skiers have known Big Sky as a low-key ski destination.
But with new luxury resorts and tricked-out lifts, word is about to get out.
Mark Hartman
“You have to go to Big Sky is a refrain Ive often heard from fellow skiers.
Descending the Liberty Bowl at Big Sky Resort, in Montana.Credit:Mark Hartman
But diehards know what really puts thebiginBig Sky.
ski resort,Big Sky has a unique preponderance of this throw in of advanced terrain.
Ive always joked that if Im not a beautiful skier, I am a brave one.
Fron left: Tela, a certified avalanche dog; Fan Mountain, as seen from Lone Peak, at Big Sky.Mark Hartman
(My fiance, Dan, and I also ski in the backcountry in Californias Sierra Nevada.)
Plunging down the 1,400-foot vertical face between bands of unforgiving rock, the skier looks tiny and inconsequential.
Yet he moves with strength and intention, responding to the demands of the terrain.
From left: Skiing the lower section of Pinnacles, an expert run on Lone Peak; the reception area at the Summit Hotel.Mark Hartman
But will I have the skills?
Big Sky is in the midst of a transformation.
He asks if were skiing today if so, hell leave our gear outside for us.
From left: The shadow of the Swift Current lift; dinner at Cortina.Mark Hartman
We say no, and he checks his watch.
Its 2:15 p.m. You should go, he urges.
We demur, citing work commitments, but hes unimpressed.
From left: The heated pool at the Montage; a guest room at the resort.Mark Hartman
Its so close, he points out, gesturing at the window.
Indeed it is: theres the lift.
Big Sky is in the midst of a transformation.
From left: Downtown Big Sky; skiers on the Spotted Elk run.Mark Hartman
The town center has grown up, too, into a hip outpost that offers pho and mezcal cocktails.
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Not everyone loves the changes.
Theres a down-to-earth vibe, with a healthy mix of families and young people.
The view from the top of the Swift Current lift.Mark Hartman
Even among the well-heeled guests at the Montage, there isnt a flamboyant fur-trimmed puffer in sight.
The Montage is surrounded by mostly beginner runs.
Everything at Big Sky feels new, because a lot of it is.
A guest room at the Summit Hotel.Mark Hartman
Suddenly, an odd movement catches my eye.
A teenage-looking skier, dressed in black, is sliding headfirst beneath us.
Hes well over halfway down and still sliding fast.
Dessert at Cortina, a northern Italian restaurant at Montage Big Sky.Mark Hartman
Up to this moment, I hadnt thought about how sheer this slope is, but now Im spooked.
Were about to ski Cold Spring, a trail often used as a test run for the Big Couloir.
I called it my mental Rolodex of experience.
From left: Snowboarding down the Gullies, a series of six double-black-diamond runs at Big Sky; skier Hailey Rumore.Mark Hartman
It works: as I start down, I feel surprisingly in control.
When I reach the bottom, Shannon smiles and tells me, Good skiing.
Throughout the day, we intersperse challenging runs with wide-open groomed trails and playful routes between the trees.
From left: Cozying up in the Montage Big Sky lounge; Everett’s 8800, a restaurant at the top of Andesite Mountain.Mark Hartman
In time I find it more rewarding nailing each descent feels like hitting a carefully targeted bulls-eye.
Shannons tips prove to be revelatory on steep bumps, too.
Kircher installed his son John as general manager.
A view of Lone Peak from Everett’s 8800 restaurant.Mark Hartman
The younger Kircher dreamed of building a lift on Lone Peak.
Many told him it would be too complex, and Dad wouldnt approve it.
But Dad was based in Michigan, so one day John just oops ordered a tram.
The original tram that John installed was already a feat of lift engineering.
It will also feature large glass side panels and a glass floor.
To me, the old tram is knee-weakening enough already.
As we ascend, the mountain face is sometimes just a few feet outside the window.
At the top, we walk into a wooden shack where a patroller is assigning time slots.
As we click in to our skis, I give a shot to tamp down my apprehension.
I dig my edges into the slope for reassurance.
The skiing is intimidating, each turn demanding a renewed commitment.
I give a shot to emulate her and focus on good form.
About two-thirds of the way down, my legs are beginning to burn, but I keep moving.
We hoot and tap our poles, and suddenly, more seems possible.
This is the appeal of steep skiing.
His lifes ambition was to be a ski bum, but he ended up becoming a lawyer instead.
Skiing is the most decadent thing you might do on the planet, he says.
Dan eventually goes back to the hotel room, and I stay out on my own.
I find an untouched stretch and paint a long, swishy brushstroke down.
On the best trips, on the best mountains, its both.
Where to Eat
Everetts 8800: Refuel after a morning of skiing at this mountaintop gastropub.
Montana Dinner Yurt: Backcountry dining at its most indulgent, with a side of candlelight and live music.
