Before Ibiza was party central, it was famous for its chilled-out, mystical vibe.
Now the Spanish islands New Age scene is having a resurgence.
These two statements may seem contradictory, but in fact, they’re closely connected.
From left: A Moroccan-style doorway at Pikes hotel, once the location of the island’s most legendary parties; paddleboarding at Punta Galera, in the southwest of Ibiza.Gunnar Knechtel
Ibiza is my favorite place on the planet.
For the past two decades, it’s been the only destination I’ve visited every year except one.
It was the early 2000s, the era of the superclub and the superstar DJ.
The pool at the Oku Ibiza hotel.Gunnar Knechtel
But no matter how late the party went on, the morning always rolled around.
Because I’ve had the most fun on Ibiza, I have also had the worst hangovers there.
Even before the pandemic, some of the best-loved clubs had shut down.
From left: A quiet courtyard at Pikes hotel; flamingo décor at Pikes hotel.Gunnar Knechtel
Was this the next shift?
With my usual Ibiza partner in crime, Emily, I got on a plane to find out.
In 1983, when George Michael and Andrew Ridgeley of Wham!
From left: Pomegranates ripening at Six Senses Ibiza; an olive tree forms the centerpiece of the Farmer’s Market, a restaurant at Six Senses.Gunnar Knechtel
But by 2011, the hotel was looking pretty down at the heels.
The decor is so joyful that it feels like a celebration even with everyone obediently sitting down.
“Early evenings are for cocktails around the pool.
From left: Vegan pesto spaghettini at El Chiringuito; a plant-based omelet and parfait at Wild Beets.Gunnar Knechtel
It’s become less about dancing, drugs, and DJs.
Ibiza’s more about relaxing now.”
Ibiza’s more about relaxing now, and the restaurant scene is exploding, especially in Santa Gertrudis."
From left: Es Torrent’s famous paella; outdoor seating at Es Torrent.Gunnar Knechtel
We had reservations at Wild Beets, a vegan restaurant that has become one of Ibiza’s hottest tables.
By the time we left, the two of us were high on the feeling of good health.
“Restaurants are the new clubs,” Serena Cook told me the next day.
From left: A staffer in the 20-acre garden at villa rental Fincadelica; an outdoor lounge at Fincadelica.Gunnar Knechtel
She knows all too well how people’s expectations of the island have changed.
Once upon a time, I would have had only drinks at El Chiringuito.
But everyone’s going to bed at 2 a.m. these days," Cook added.
From left: Ibiza’s northern coast, as seen from the wildflower garden at Six Senses; sundowners at Pikes.Gunnar Knechtel
Instead of an infinity pool, it has a pretty egg-shaped saltwater one.
Next to the house is an enchanting and enormous biodynamic vegetable garden.
Connecting with the earth in a luxury villa: you could’t get more Ibiza 2020s than that.
The view from the private terrace of a guest room at the Six Senses Ibiza.Gunnar Knechtel
Most of my favorite Ibizan hotels are converted farmhouses, orfincas, such asEs Cucons.
But then Emily and I walked into Atzaro.
“Now, there’s a more luxe, high-end, spiritual feel.
From left: A singing bowl is incorporated in a spa treatment at Six Senses Ibiza, a new wellness-focused property in the north of the island; the spa at Six Senses.Gunnar Knechtel
It’s luxurious but not bling.”
Greenery is everywhere, from the orange trees in the spa garden to the lush plants in the rooms.
“Wellness isn’t just about treatments, but about feeling a connection with nature,” Lacase said.
From left: Lorena Turrini and Davide Rizzi at work in Fincadelica’s garden; the Tower Suite at Fincadelica.Gunnar Knechtel
Great, a cookie-cutter mega-hotel squatting up there like a giant white elephant, I huffed.
And it is very much an Ibizan hotel, built using local materials.
With the de rigueur vegetable garden, it feels almost like anagriturismoon a grand scale.
The suite even came with its own sizable garden.
But by the end of the trip, I felt better than I had in years.
“You look…good,” my husband said when I arrived back home.
He was confused because he’s more used to welcoming back a broken wraith after my Ibiza trips.
Ibiza is still fun but now, astonishingly, it’s good for you, too.
Guests have use of a movie theater and a soundproofed dance room.
Meals are prepared by the house’s chef from produce grown on site.
The Japanese-inspired restaurant is also a standout.
Sip on a Baby Jane and step back in time.
Es Torrent: Located on a quiet cove, this seafood spot makes the best paella on the island.
Jondal: Getting a table at this lunch-only restaurant on sandy Cala Jondal requires persistence.
Once you’ve made it in, try the scorpion fish or stingray, either fried or grilled.
