“Iceland is an entirely different country in winter.”

Just then, a funnel-shaped green blaze splashed across the sky: the northern lights.

I sought out Helgi Bararson, Torfus man-of-all-trades, at the front desk.

Exterior of the cottages at Deplar Farms in Iceland during the wintertime

Cottages at Deplar Farm, in Iceland.Credit:Courtesy of Eleven

We scrolled the glossary, and he shook his head.

The right word did not appear.

So, he made one up:podrmjoll.

The northern ights seen in Iceland

The northern lights over Iceland.Courtesy of Eleven

Eighty-six words for snow, and counting.

Iceland is an entirely different country in winter, Siggi Jensson mused.

The weather became treacherous for my next leg.

A drawing of a historic Torfhus in Iceland

A drawing of a traditional Icelandic turf house.Courtesy of Torfhús Retreat

Airports shut down, roads closed, and life paused all over Iceland.

I cooled my heels in Reykjavik, adopting the Icelandic motto,petta reddas go with the flow.

My room abutted the spa, a refuge of palpable silence and lavender-scented tranquility.

Interior of a living room at Torfhus Retreat in Iceland

Inside a Torfhús Retreat guest house.Courtesy of Torfhús Retreat

We always have a plan B, she says.

That night, there was akafaldsbylur a storm that brought 80-mile-per-hour gusts.

What seemed white was actually pink, primrose yellow, lilac, watery green.

Faxi waterfall located in South Iceland

Faxi waterfall.Gulli Vals/Getty Images

So, I went for it, emerging lightheaded and euphoric.

There, I met co-owner Lukka Heimisdottir, and a bouncing litter of Icelandic sheepdog puppies.

I munched on licorice Icelands sweet staple and was delirious from the sublime beauty.

Exterior of Deplar Farms in Iceland during the wintertime

Deplar Farm, a luxury guest lodge in Iceland.Courtesy of Eleven

Also, I was lucky for Kristjan and his skillful driving.

Things can go wrong very fast.

Two hundred miles later, we arrived at modern Husafell, to encounter more transcendence.

Exterior of a cottage and water at Deplar Farms in Iceland during the wintertime

A pool at Deplar Farm.Courtesy of Eleven

Courtesy of Hotel Husafell

There are 269 glaciers left in Iceland, and they are disappearing quickly.

We were in white-out conditions.

Our driver, Sigrun Sigurdardottir, deflated the rigs 58-inch tires to better navigate atop the glacier.

Exterior of the cottages at Deplar Farms under the Norther Lights in Iceland

The northern lights over Deplar Farm cottages.Courtesy of Eleven

He stopped alongside the racing Hvita River and urged me to drink from it.

Soon, I understood why.

We descended into Circle Canyon along a path cut from the snow; my crampons gripped the slick path.

Aerial view of Husafell Canyon Baths at Hotel Husafell

An aerial view of the Husafell Canyon Baths.Courtesy of Hótel Húsafell

I had come to Iceland in February expecting cold and darkness.