Long considered a no-go for gay travelers, Cuba is now one of the Caribbeans most dynamic LGBTQ destinations.

Truthfully, Cuba had never been high on my list.

Friends had told me that the food was disappointing and the LGBTQ scene basically nonexistent.

A pair of photos one showing a stree in Havana and the other cocktails on a terrace.

The countrys struggles are also driving change.

LGBTQ bars in Havana, includingPaZilloandXY, regularly host queer parties that last until the wee hours.

Not that we were focused solely on nightlife.

Gay pride parade.

One afternoon we had a private viewing of work by Alejandro Caner, an up-and-coming queer digital artist.

You wont find his stuff at official galleries here, Gonzalez told us.

Entering the pop-up, in a small studio in a residential building, it became apparent why.

Street and Marina in Senglea, Malta

We also had a chance to explore beyond Havana.

Lunch was a farm-to-table feast atRestaurante El Cuajani,which serves dishes such as bruschetta and fresh pumpkin soup.

Toward the end of our week, Gonzalez surprised us with a pig roast in the countryside outside Havana.

Matthieu Jost, founder of misterb&b on sand dunes and on a beach swing

Come with a sense of adventure, Gonzalez said, and youll have a good time.

Tours such as those from Verano Forever Travel qualify, as do other organized programs that emphasize cultural exchange.

U.S. credit cards typically dont work on the island, so bring plenty of cash.

Two mature woman with coffee on the beach

A pair of photos one showing a stree in Havana and the other cocktails on a terrace.

From left: A classic Havana street scene; cocktail hour in Havana with Verano Forever Travel.Credit:From left: Brandon Rosenblum/Getty Images; Courtesy of Verano Forever Travel