With its blazing fall colors and picturesque villages, the Japanese island of Kyushu was made for cycling.
Courtesy of William W. Liew
I am not a cyclist.
I dont even own a bicycle.
Biking up Mount Unzen, in Japan’s Nagasaki Prefecture.Credit:Courtesy of William W. Liew
Not to mention a rich culture of hospitality.
The island even started a professional cycling race thats held in October, the Tour de Kyushu.
First I took a day of rest to let the jet lag wear off.
A shrine on Futamigaura Beach, on Kyushu’s northern coast.Courtesy of William W. Liew
I was staying at theRitz-Carlton, Fukuoka,a sleek tower overlooking the harbor.
My guide from Cycling Island Kyushu met me at the hotel in a van stuffed with equipment.
Will Liew grew up in Vermont and moved to Japan after college.
Genjyu, a restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton, Fukuoka.Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton, Fukuoka
Liew is also a gifted artist, and he designed his routes around the Japanese concept ofkomorebi.
Recent clients from Thailand told Liew that they felt like they were riding on his canvas.
You meet wonderful people, he said.
From left: Fall foliage in the town of Karatsu; a tiled bridge in the village of Okawachiyama.From left: Courtesy of Prairie Stuart-Wolff; Courtesy of Kyushu Tourism Organization and Wondertrunk & Co.
Thats what I enjoy most.
But its also stuffed with tiny villages and good-sized cities.
Courtesy of Prairie Stuart-Wolff
The next day began on a more spiritual note.
Onigiri at Mirukashi Salon.Courtesy of Prairie Stuart-Wolff
Liew explained that it was dedicated to two powerful gods, a brother and sister.
According to Shinto mythology, they were among the deities who created Japan.
The shrine, old and wooden, was built on top of a mountain.
We dismounted at the base, parked our bikes, then climbed a series of 300 stone steps.
Inside were numerous photographs of people in the community whod kept the shrine in good shape over the decades.
After a minute to catch our breath, we prayed and asked for blessings.
From there we made a fast descent into Okawachiyama, known as the village of secret kilns.
With the mountains above us robed in mist, it felt like wed stepped out of time.
We ducked through a low front door to enter an immense wooden building that was once a pharmacy.
It was all very warm and welcoming.
Kyushu is a place that Japanese people leave big cities like Tokyo to move to, Liew said.
They want cities that feel small and are full of natural beauty.
Karatsu, our final destination, wasnt a big city at all it has just 100,000 residents.
Writer and photographer Prairie Stuart-Wolff moved to Karatsu, her wifes hometown, in 2007.
In 2023, Stuart-Wolff openedMirukashi Salonto host culinary experiences foraging, cooking, and sharing meals.
We spent the morning shopping at local markets, then prepared lunch in her kitchen.
First there was a savory egg custard made with dashi, the traditional Japanese fish stock.
Then tofu dressed in white miso and served over fresh persimmon.
After that, seared mackerel with citrus, followed by yuzu sorbet with cinnamon.
Kyushu usually isnt on visitors lists for their first trip to Japan, Stuart-Wolff said.
But it definitely should be.
It resembled something from coastal Maine, but more wild.
We rode the islands perimeter as large waves smashed against the rocks.
Three-day tours withCycling Island Kyushufrom $1,300, all-inclusive.
