Here’s what it was like to circumnavigate the Svalbard archipelago with Aurora Expeditions.

The chance to come face-to-face with this adorable seal was all thanks to an Aurora Expeditions cruise.

Svalbardis a magical place, says expedition leaderHoward Whelan, who was also the founding editor ofAustralian Geographic.

Kayakers paddling near the Sylvia Earle in Samarinbreen, Svalbard

Credit:Lina Stock /Courtesy of Divergent Travelers

Its got a subtlety that takes a little while to seep in, but everyone is affected by it.

Bartosz Strozynski/Courtesy of Aurora Expeditions

TheSylvia Earlewas a comfortable home base.

And thats a good thing because the weather can change on a dime in the high Arctic.

Kayakers kayaking through ice along glacier in Samarinbreen, Svalbard

Lina Stock /Courtesy of Divergent Travelers

By the time we reached the islands shore again, theSylvia Earlewas completely invisible in the thick fog.

The Arctic is beautiful, but it can also be moody and cruel.

The current was strong, so we didnt need to do much other than drift along.

Walruses & MV Sylvia Earler at Russebukta, Svalbard

Richard I’Anson/Courtesy of Aurora Expeditions

The scene was ethereal, like being in the middle of a starlings murmuration.

The draw of the Arctic isnt just the polar bears and walruses.

The Science Center on board the Sylvia Earle

Bartosz Strozynski/Courtesy of Aurora Expeditions

The Library on board the Sylvia Earle

Courtesy of Aurora Expeditions

Zodiac with guests approaching glacier face, Monacobreen in Spitsbergen, Svalbard

Lina Stock/Courtesy of Divergent Travelers