Michelle Mishina Kunz
From New York City, the flight to Hawaii takes 11 hours.
In together, out together.
It was a way to show unity and togetherness, and to let your negativity wash away.
From left: The entrance to Nāhuku, a lava tube in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, on Hawaii Island; a thatched hale, or cottage, at Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort.Credit:Michelle Mishina Kunz
As we sat catching our collective breaths who knew paddling was such hard work?
he shouted and pointed toward the horizon.
lets all paddle together, read the inscription along one side.
From left: The ‘Ōhi‘a lehua tree, which is used in many traditional Hawaiian ceremonies; Mauna Lani’s Canoe House restaurant.Michelle Mishina Kunz
puffer fish that live in the ponds today.
(Lei Dayis May 1st.)
Built in 1983, the property had, over the decades, become a much-loved island landmark.
From left: A Kona Village staffer enjoys an off-duty drink at the resort’s Shipwreck Bar; begonias growing in the Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden.Michelle Mishina Kunz
Another thing Auberge didnt change, and wisely so, is Canoe House.
As our server cleared our plates, she asked: Is this your first time in Hawaii?
Yeah, Leo said casually.
From left: The entrance to the Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden; visitors stand beneath a grove of giant bamboo in Hilo’s Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden.Michelle Mishina Kunz
We probably should have done it a couple of years ago.
Its pretty much the definition of a landmark hotel.
And that was before wed seen Waikiki Beach.
From left: A seafood platter at Canoe House, Mauna Lani’s signature restaurant; a wooden outrigger canoe forms the centerpiece of Mauna Lani’s atrium.Michelle Mishina Kunz
Yes, we were on vacation now.
Hawaii is a land of volcanoes, and my kids Leo, especially are volcano enthusiasts.
Clearly we had to see it.
From left: Golden gardenia on the grounds of Kona Village; Kona Village staffers prepare for a canoe paddle.Michelle Mishina Kunz
Theres an interesting divide between the fancy-beach-resort people and the national-park people on Hawaii Island.
Many travelers staying on the coast will take a helicopter tour of the volcanoes and call it a day.
But Volcanoes was an absolute blast, and I mean that in a good way.
From left: A tiki carving keeps watch at Kona Village; a floating dock in Kona Village’s Kahuwai Bay.Michelle Mishina Kunz
The contrast with Mauna Lani couldnt have been greater.
Here, the kids slept on futons on the floor.
For dinner we ate Thai food from Aunty Pons, a truck stationed in a nearby parking lot.
From left: Mauna Lani staffer Ethan Souza (right) teaches leimaking in the resort’s Hale ‘I‘ke, or house of knowledge; flowers ready to be made into leis at Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection.Michelle Mishina Kunz
We decided to begin by investigating the Nahuku lava tube.
We needed to step up the excitement.
Three-point-three miles, it read.
From left: A Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park guide at an overlook near Kīlauea’s caldera; cracks in the floor of Kīlauea Iki, a pit crater in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.Michelle Mishina Kunz
Could we do it?
Nah, said Leo.
Come on Leo, it will be a cool experience, Stella said.
From left: The pool deck of a villa at Kona Village; shaved ice is served poolside at the resort.Michelle Mishina Kunz
Dave and I looked at each other.
Who was this grown-up girl talking about cool experiences?
We liked her a lot, wherever she had suddenly sprung from.
From left: Kona Village’s Moana family pool; the interior of one of Kona Village’s legacy hales.Michelle Mishina Kunz
Come on Leo, I said.
To be fair, there were distractions.
After about a half-hour, we hit the volcano floor.
Hiking across Kīlauea Iki, a pit crater in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.Michelle Mishina Kunz
A cool experience indeed.
After all the adventure of the park, it felt right to end our trip back on the beach.
The next morning we drove down to the Kona Coast to spend our last few nights at Kona Village.
Swimmers at Waikiki Beach, on Oahu, with Diamond Head in the distance.Michelle Mishina Kunz
I spoke to seemed to have known about it for years.
I quickly learned that, in the context of Hawaiian tourism, Kona Village is the stuff of legend.
There was no road access, so Jackson built an airstrip.
The iconic pink exterior of the Royal Hawaiian hotel, in Honolulu.Michelle Mishina Kunz
In 2011, the Asian tsunami destroyed the resort.
But its safe to say that those who choose to return will not be disappointed.
Its barefoot luxury 2.0: relaxed and informal, but with every conceivable comfort.
Under the surface the water was a bright, chalky blue.
Wow, I said to Imonen as we handed back our masks and snorkels an hour or so later.
He grinned and explained that a no-catch zone introduced some eight years ago was now bearing fruit.
Conditions down there are some of the best on the island.
Back on land, we were curious to learn a bit more about the history of Kaupulehu.
Look, Leo said, pointing to two small figures etched into the rock.
Its a brother and sister.
It looks like Leo trying to hit me on the shins with a pool noodle, Stella said.
We all stopped to look at these ancient siblings, their disagreements rendered irrelevant centuries ago.
Do you think brothers and sisters got along in ancient Hawaiian times?
Probably not, she said with a sigh.
Soon enough, it was our last morning at Kona Village, and our last day in Hawaii.
Our first paddle at Mauna Lani seemed like weeks ago so much had happened since.
We cut along under the palm-lined cliffs of Kaupulehu, passing one or two little black-sand coves.
Every couple of minutes Imonen gave the command Hut-Hooo to signal it was time to switch arms.
Then we heard something different.
There at 11 oclock!
They passed at incredible speed: within a minute or so they had almost disappeared.
Imonen turned the canoe around; we needed to head back.
And this time he didnt have to tell us how we already knew.
We picked up our oars and rowed toward the shore, all paddling together.
The pulled-pork sandwich was one of the best things I ate in Hawaii.
Sig Zane
The high-quality Hawaiian shirts in this chic Hilo boutique make covetable souvenirs.
