Amid the canyons of Zagorohoria, locals are welcoming travelers eager for adventure.
Margarita Nikitaki
Youre canyoning!
my husband, Emilio, yelled down from the monolith above me.
From left: The terrace at Kipi Suites; the view from Aristi Mountain Resort.Credit:Margarita Nikitaki
It wasnt the only spot where we took a dip.
This hidden paradise was well worth whatweconsidered a strenuous trek.
But the landscape is every bit as stunning.
Sunset in Papingo, one of the 46 villages in northern Greece that make up the Zagorohoria.Margarita Nikitaki
(Some villagers even continue the tradition of using them to make botanical medicines.)
Now the spectacular environment is drawing people back, as well as enticing new visitors to explore the region.
Vasileios Remos, our rafting guide and the owner ofZagori Outdoor Activities, is one of those returning locals.
From left: Local products at Sta Riza, in Vitsa; Nikos Kontodimos of Vikogiatros Café.Margarita Nikitaki
At the time, resident old-timers thought he was nuts.
Around 2010, things changed.
Formerly separated into three different municipalities, the Zagorohoria became a single big one.
The indoor swimming pool at Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas, in western Zagori.Margarita Nikitaki
Unlike other regions of Greece, the Zagorohoria now attracts visitors year-round.
As appreciation for the Zagorohorias natural environment grew, so did the infrastructure needed to protect it.
The area was named a unesco Global Geopark in 2015.
A vendor’s stall in Papingo.Margarita Nikitaki
In 2023, it was added to the World Heritage list.
At every corner, we found a heart-stopping view, a just-scary-enough adventure, or a distinctive meal.
That night, we had dinner at Vikogiatros Cafe,a local hangout in the village of Koukouli.
From left: Kolymbithres, a natural swimming hole; a group preparing to raft the Voidomatis river.Margarita Nikitaki
But the crowning jewel is pine, which is energizing.
At the sound of it, I opted for wild rose.
But Kontodimos brought me a shot of pine anyway.
Almost minty, it was instantly invigorating something I need in my everyday life.
I asked him if he bottled his liqueurs to sell.
He shook his head.
Only if I have a large supply.
I have to keep enough to serve my customers or I wont have pine again until next summer.
While mildly disappointing, the answer was not entirely surprising.
Like many residents of the Zagorohoria, Kontodimos realizes that what he has here is precious.
Luckily for me, he is both smart enough to safeguard it and kind enough to share it.