Finds some of Italys most storied and spectacular coffee shops in the underappreciated city of Trieste.
Jaka Bulc
I thought I knew everything there was to know about Italian coffee.
Trieste is the Mediterraneans leading port for coffee beans from Africa and South America.
A “capo in b” at Antico Caffè San Marco.Credit:Jaka Bulc
While Turin is the home of Lavazza, Trieste is the city built by Illy.
Its said the typical Triestino consumes 22 pounds of beans a year, almost double the Italian average.
Starting in 1719, coffee and other imports were no longer taxed.
From left: A coffee break along the Grand Canal of Trieste; espresso at the bar at Antico Caffè Torinese.Jaka Bulc
These declarations attracted people from around the Mediterranean, many of whom went into the coffee-importing trade.
Today, at least 10 historic cafes remain in Trieste, each with its own distinctive character.
(The original designer went on to decorate theSaturniaand theVulcania.)
From left: Inside Caffè Pirona; a vermouth aperitivo at Caffè San Marco.Jaka Bulc
Before I departed Trieste, I returned to where Id started, Caffe San Marco.
In a lifetime of coffee-shop sitting, this may be the best cafe Ive ever encountered.
A selection of sweets at Caffè Tommaseo.Jaka Bulc
The bar at Antico Caffè San Marco.Jaka Bulc
From left: The centerpiece of Caffè Pirona; preparing a drink at Caffè San Marco.Jaka Bulc
From left: An artful cappuccino at Antico Caffè Torinese; Caffè Tommaseo.Jaka Bulc
From left: Picture-perfect espresso at Caffè Pirona; coffee drinkers at Antico Caffè Torinese.Jaka Bulc