Siargao must be what Bali felt like 50 years ago.
And like Bali 50 years ago, Siargao is on the cusp of change.
It is still mostly undeveloped and wild, with winding dirt roads and homes fashioned from tin sheets.
Credit: Mark Fredesjed R. Cristino/Pacific Press/LightRocket via Getty Images
The U.S. dollar goes far.
Tipping helps make an island that is becoming increasingly more expensive for locals more affordable.
The hotel is central, sits right on the beach, and has a great Spanish restaurant.
Scenic aerial view of palm trees on Siargao Island, Philippines. Also known as the “Surfing Capital of the Philippines".Jacob Marsh/Getty Images
The Kalinaw is north of the bustling heart of General Luna, providing guests with a quieter stay.
The renowned Cloud 9 surf break is just 15 minutes from the hotel on foot.
Several of the villas here face the pool, which is one of the islands best and biggest.
Surfer on Cloud 9 off Siargao Island, Philippines.John Seaton Callahan / Getty Images
(Nay Palad is all-inclusive.)
Nay Palad Hideaway has just a few private villas and a quiet beachfront.
Then, head back to the beach to rent a board and secure a guide.
Matteo Colombo / Getty Images
The trip includes a couple of snorkeling stops, too.
The whole experience is entirely touristy and delightful.
Magpopongko is definitely a tourist activity, but well worth the 50-minute drive from General Luna.
Boat off Daku Island, Philippines.John Seaton Callahan / Getty Images
(I hired a tuk-tuk to get there).
Pacifico Beach is significantly quieter and less crowded and has its own surf spot to boot.
What to Eat
Kurvada
Anytime I scootered pastKurvada day or night it was packed.
The eatery has a great selection of Western-style breakfast items, along with some local dishes.
Shaka
Every Cloud 9 surf day should begin with a coffee and smoothie bowl atShaka.
(Dont worry, they have cold noodle dishes as well.)
Flavors feature fruits and plants foraged on the island, from mango and coconut to pandan and ube.
The rainy season typically kicks off in full force in November and continues through early March.
I visited the island for three weeks in September and only experienced two rainy days.
If you dont like the heat, plan your visit in the spring or fall.
Theres a never-ending supply of tuk-tuks, which run at all hours and are manned by friendly drivers.
They will transport you up and down Tourism Road in General Luna for around $1 each way.
I spenta few days in Manilabefore flying directly to Siargao with Philippine Airlines.
It was a quick flight (two hours) and a smooth travel day.
The route is prone to delays.
