There are no roads or trails here.

Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images

“What number is this for you?”

a man asked the couple waiting in the cramped office, his casual tone laced with curiosity.

Arrigetch Peaks in Gates of the Arctic National Park, Alaska

Arrigetch Peaks reflect in the mirror calm mountain lake of Gates of the Arctic National Park, Alaska.Credit:Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images

“56,” the woman replied, her voice steady, confident.

“And you?”

“We’re at 59,” the man said with a nod as if passing an unspoken baton.

A plane over Circle Lake in Gates of the Arctic National Park

A float plane flying over Circle Lake and Brooks Range mountains.Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images

They didn’t turn to me or the other solo traveler pacing near the doorway.

They didn’t need to.

We all understood the language.

Aerial view of a rainbow in Gates of the Arctic National Park in Alaska

Confluence of Easter Creek and Killik River and the Brooks Range mountains in Gates of the Arctic National Park.Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images

To most people, 56, 59, or even 63 wouldn’t mean a thing.

They signify journeys taken, mountains climbed, and deserts crossed.

I glanced at the floor, trying to keep my excitement at bay.

Mountain reflection in a creek in Gates of the Arctic National Park, Alaska

Mountain reflections of Xanadu, Arial and Caliban peaks in Arrigetch Creek.Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images

It’s easy to see whyGates of the Arcticholds that distinction.

This park is not a place travelers stumble upon; it’s a place they must seek out.

Weather delays are common here, so there are no set flight times.

Finally, the text came: The skies had cleared.

It was time to go.

At the hangar, I joined five other travelers and our pilot for the flight into the wilderness.

I walked along the river.

Where to Stay

There are no designated campsites or lodging within the park.

On a day trip, most visitors will fly into the park from the gateway cities.

Fairbanks is the largest and offers the most options, but it is also further from the park.

Travelers can also find hotels, wilderness lodges, and bed-and-breakfasts in Coldfoot, Bettles, and Kotzebue.

Mid-August to mid-September will bring fall colors, cooler temperatures, and more flight availability.