It’s thrilling to discover an unfamiliar place in a part of the world you thought you knew well.
But I had never visited Montenegro, a tiny country wedged between Croatia and Albania on the Adriatic Sea.
A dozen modern pavilions and villas, inspired by the Renaissance-era palazzos of Venice, house 123 rooms.
One&Only Portonovi, at left, on the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro.Courtesy of One&Only
It was a joy to watch the boats motor by from my covered terrace.
But one thing I happily left my room for was the food.
The latter were especially drawn to the Henri Chenotbranded spa.
From left: Hotel speedboats whisk guests around the bay; One&Only’s soaring lobby.Courtesy of One&Only
Created by the late French wellness guru, the practice is rooted in both traditional Chinese and Western medicine.
Acupuncture and anti-stress treatments are popular, as are on-trend medical regimes like IV nutrient drips and cryotherapy.
I chose a massage that uses suction cups meant to release blocked energy and eliminate toxins.
A Benedictine monastery on St. George’s Island, in the Bay of Kotor.Courtesy of One&Only
I was also curious to explore the mountainous natural landscapes I had seen on my ride from the airport.
Next to it sits a jewel box of a museum that’s filled with religious artifacts and tapestries.
Just like Montenegro itself.
oneandonlyresorts.com; doubles from $930.
