This overnight trip on board the Santa Claus Express in Finnish Lapland ends with a magical encounter.

Mark Waugh/Alamy

Gritted, salted, and gray with ice that crunched underfoot, Platform 8 was heaving.

Scores of children trudged around, their breaths twisting up on the frosty air.

Reindeer sleds at Santa Claus Village in Finland

Reindeer sleds at Santa Claus Village, near the town of Rovaniemi.Credit:Mark Waugh/Alamy

Almost 20 minutes late, theSanta Claus Expresscurled into Helsinki Central Station.

While waiting, I had befriended Saara, a pink-haired young woman who worked as a server.

The city also happens to call itself “The Official Hometown of Santa Claus.”

View of a snowy resort landscape with guest igloos

Glass igloos dot the grounds of the Apukka Resort.Courtesy of Apukka Resort

As they thundered down corridors and clambered into berths, the kids joy was infectious.

After dinner, we retired to our private cabin to watch the snowy landscape from under our duvets.

The compartment was warm as toast, with two berths wide enough to share with our daughters.

A young girl with a pink hat looks up to a train on a snowy platform

The author’s daughter on the platform in Helsinki, Finland.Courtesy of Monisha Rajesh

By midnight, the steady sway had sent us all into a deep and restful sleep.

Courtesy of Monisha Rajesh

Just before 7 a.m., the conductor announced that we were nearing Rovaniemi.

A short taxi ride brought us to theApukka Resort,a forested escape dotted with glass igloos.

Santa Claus Village was a 10-minute shuttle ride from the resort.

After cups of hot chocolate, we joined the other families in line.

Have you lost your voice?

Santa asked as my younger daughter sat open-mouthed and speechless.

Her older sister explained wed come from London.

May I stop at your house next week when I pass by?

My girls nodded in excitement, before leaving with two small packages wrapped with yellow ribbon.

Inside were stuffed reindeer toys and a pair of real antler tines.

Christmas had come early.

Updated by Claudia Fisher Sorrentino.