Where to stay, what to eat, and where to shop in Norway’s capital.
One travels to a new city to correct assumptions, to pave over impressionistic fragments with the real deal.
Suffice to say the tendency for self-deprecation among Norwegians is so apparent that it verges on dysmorphia.
A view across the fjord toward the Aker Brygge neighborhood.Øivind Haug
More recently, Norways natural resources have also put it in a politically uneasy position.
I did stumble upon a birdhouse defaced with I SLUTS!
in Kuba Park but see?
Telthusbakken, a street with well-preserved centuries-old houses.Øivind Haug
Here, even the grit has wit.
Three architectural behemoths have altered the skyline in as many years and are drawing waves of tourists.
These works will not be read until 2114.
From left: One of more than 200 works by early-20th-century Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland at Frogner Park; the Munch museum, designed by Spanish architecture firm Estudio Herreros, overlooks Bjørvika Bay.Øivind Haug
I smiled and nodded and sipped.
Let no one say I wasnt warned.
But its most wonderful quality is one that evades clear description.
The new main branch of Oslo’s public library, in Bjørvika.Øivind Haug
Theres more art on the rooftop, and there are structures you might crawl into.
Considering skipping a gallery?
These doors opened into extra rooms of my apartment.
Works by Edvard Munch at the Munch museum.Øivind Haug
Sometimes they opened into a whole extra apartment.
All I had to do was push.
Tovisit Oslois to experience this secret room sensation writ large.
Taking the plunge into the Oslofjord at Kok floating saunas.Øivind Haug
Over the course of my week in Oslo, I learned that even popular destinations contained surprises.
Having now done it myself, I can say that I came for the first and got the second.
Even Oslo’s hotels are in on the pocket theme.
Ekspedisjonshallen, an all-day brasserie at the Sommerro hotel.Øivind Haug
The glamorousSommerroopened just last September, but this industrial yet elegant space has a long and storied past.
Built in 1931, it was once the headquarters of the citys electric company.
The common areas are dotted with work by Alex Katz and Shepard Fairey.
From left: The library at the Amerikalinjen hotel; the hotel’s entrance.Øivind Haug
Instead, I opted for a less high-concept Moscow Mule.
After a couple of these, I needed to start consuming more than the stray cinnamon bun.
I was in luck.
From left: A guest room with 1930s-style furnishings at Sommerro; Rouleur, a café and bar at a bicycle-repair shop.Øivind Haug
Oslo is racking up the culinary awards these days, a fact that makes some residents blush.
Would I ever again eat scallops that are notthesescallops, raspberries that are nottheseraspberries?
What would be the point?
Who knew one could do that to turnips?
Plus, the coffee was rocket fuel in a glass.
I was up half the night, thinking about my meal.
If youre thinking of visiting the Oslo outpost, you might want to consider rolling out the aquavit.
The restaurant is neither new nor hip.
Getting to Lille Herbern is its own adventure.
Oh, who wants to spoil that question with an answer?
For so long Oslo has dubbed itself suburban or overlooked, the lesser-loved Scandinavian capital.
Have its doors really opened into grander rooms, or is this all still part of the dream?
Becco:Join the stylish crowd at this bi-level bar with a sprawling outdoor patio.
Izakaya:A pocket-size spot serving Japanese snacks and alcohol.
Lorry:Ornate paintings and taxidermy decorate this Oslo institution.
Maaemo:One of the worlds best restaurants, with three Michelin stars.
Punk Royale:This Swedish dining experience launched in Oslo last fall.
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Rouleur:A bar/cafe/bike-repair shop with a laid-back vibe.
Vaaghals:Colorful courses and top-notch wine pairings take center stage at this bright, airy restaurant.
Kok:With two locations, guests can sauna off a pier or in the fjord.
Litteraturhuset:A cultural center with a full slate of events and a quality cafe menu.
Munch:More than 26,000works by Norways most famous artist in a towering museum.
National Museum:Kleihues & Schuwerks dazzling building for the countrys largest repository of art.
Vigeland Museet:This installation of more than 200 sculptures by artist Gustav Vigeland is especially beautiful at sunset.
