Rodrigo Cardoso
We brought a tooth toPortugal.
We were setting off on what Lulu called the magazine trip.
Wed talked aboutvisiting Portugalfor years.
The main pool at Martinhal Sagres.Credit:Rodrigo Cardoso
Adam, a documentary filmmaker, loves Pedro CostasLetters from Fontainhas,a trilogy of films set in Lisbon.
During my own childhood, I was fortunate to have my curiosity shaped by traveling with my parents.
Here was a chance to continue that tradition with Lulu.
From left: Traditional wooden cargo boats, or rabelos, ply the Douro River near Porto; strolling past the Martinhal Chiado Lisbon hotel.Rodrigo Cardoso
Are we climbing a mountain?
Lulu sighed with the weariness of a child from the hill-less Midwestern suburbs.
Wed walked exactly one block.
From left: Soaps at the Claus Porto flagship store, in Porto; pizza at the Rebello, in Porto.Rodrigo Cardoso
How does one become fascinated with a place?
What role does beauty play?
As we continued to wander, I spotted a solution: toys.
From left: Enjoying the beach at Martinhal Sagres; toys on the beach at the resort.Rodrigo Cardoso
In the morning, she discovered that thePortuguesetooth fairy had left six euros in her heart-shaped tin.
Tile-making is considered an art form integral to the countrys identity.
(Fun fact: the termazulejois derived from the Arab word for a small polished stone.)
A guest room at Martinhal Sagres, a family-focused resort in the Algarve.Rodrigo Cardoso
We were learning how to travel at her pace.
We have a paper with the number of the hospital bed.
Part of the doll hospitals immense charm is the staffs total commitment to both premise and execution.
The city’s Cerca de Graça park.Rodrigo Cardoso
This is a hospital; the patients just happen to be dolls.
Youll enjoy it more if you, too, are willing to believe.
The whole lot fit in the palm of her hand.
From left: Shrimp with garlic and chili at the Martinhal Sagres; a view of the Atlantic Ocean from the resort.Rodrigo Cardoso
During one of our post-dinner strolls, Id spotted a stylish fiftysomething American couple traveling with their teenager.
A glimpse of the future, I thought.
What would life be like eight years from now?
Above Six Senses Douro Valley, which is set in Portugal’s wine country.Rodrigo Cardoso
Where would we travel with Lulu?
Who would she become?
Would she still enjoy spending time with us?
From left: Tiles at the Museu Nacional do Azulejo; the courtyard of Lisbon’s tile museum.Rodrigo Cardoso
The ornate vintage designs on the brands famed packaging spoke to her, as did the scents.
I touched her still-round cheeks and considered her beauty.
Im still dreaming about the fuchsia velvet desk chair and the citron verbena scent of the Claus Porto toiletries.
The living room of a Martinhal Chiado Lisbon guest apartment, in Lisbon.Rodrigo Cardoso
Words I never expected to hear in this life.
I came to appreciate the Rebello even more once my plans began to go awry.
That night, Adam and I forgot to set an alarm, so we had to skip breakfast.
From left: Spare parts at Lisbon’s doll hospital; the Museu da Marioneta, in Lisbon.Rodrigo Cardoso
On the second try, we made it to the bookstore an hour late.
I talked our way past the snaking line, and we stayed exactly 15 minutes.
We got to see the bookstores famed red double-helix staircase, but the crowd was too much.
The pool at Six Senses Douro Valley.Rodrigo Cardoso
It feels like we dropped into the vortex of Porto, Adam said.
Surprisingly, everyones mood lifted after we visited the Claus Porto flagship store on Rua das Flores.
Imagine Barneys (RIP), but for soap, with displays befitting the finest jewels.
From left: The Rebello’s indoor pool; vintage accents in a guest room at the Rebello hotel, in Porto.Rodrigo Cardoso
The ornate vintage designs on the brands famed packaging spoke to her, as did the scents.
Choosing four tiny soaps for herself, she announced: I love soapies!
Why hadnt I just scrapped the tickets and taken us to the hotels indoor pool?
Thankfully, dinner at the Rebellos Pot&Pan offered redemption.
Lulu, your taste in food is insane, Adam said.
Coutinho stopped by to say hello.
Then only 33, this was his first time opening three dining outlets from scratch.
For my husband, who isnt given to effusiveness, this was the highest of compliments.
You didnt tell me we had our own pool.
Lulu stared at me over the top of her glasses.
We have our own po-ol!
In the fridge, a bottle of chocolate milk had her name on it.
Having never been to any manor houses, Id describe the estate as castle-esque.
On her pillow, she found a woolen puppy with LULU embroidered on the side.
I cant believe youre experiencing this at six, Adam said to Lulu.
We exchanged nervous glances.
How would she ever go back to Airbnb?
But parenting is still parenting, even in such splendor.
Lulu had another loose tooth.
Shed become reluctant to eat.
There were cries of Hi, Lulu!
Staff stopped by at meals to inquire about the tooths progress.
Adam and I wondered whether it had been discussed via text messages, or maybe walkie-talkies.
This level of service, combined with our lack of resort experience, became almost comical.
While we gawked and bumbled, Lulu swiftly adjusted her standards.
On her pillow, she found a woolen puppy with Lulu embroidered on the side.
Months before, our daughter had learned to swim.
We were astonished to see her dip underwater, float on her back, and demonstrate her froggy moves.
Who was this swimming, toothless big kid?
Tearing her away from the pool was challenging, but we had a packed roster of activities to try.
At the Earth Lab, we pickled vegetables, made yogurt, and learned how to grow sprouts.
At the Alchemy Bar, we made an organic body scrub.
At the Activity Hut, we chatted with resident artist Helena Ferreira about travel while she and Lulu painted.
The bathroom was getting soaked.
Lulu, still hollering, was plastered against the wall in terror.
Scrambling to turn off the water, I got sprayed in the face.
Wed asked Lulu not to touch the buttons.
During the treatment, I wanted to relax, but I ruminated on my mistakes.
I found my family waiting for me at the entrance to the spa.
Lulu had been in another section getting her nails painted, a special vacation-only treat.
I admired her pink nails and apologized.
It wasnt her fault.
The buttons were too tempting.
Next we flew to faro, a city on the southern coast.
We have curated a lifestyle hotel where parents dont have to be stressed about their children.
Adults can be adults and enjoy great food, the best of Portuguese wine and their cappuccino!
It was a relief to know that we didnt have to nag her to be quiet or sit still.
In Sagres, Adam finally got his bike ride: a rugged, well-designed route that covered 50 miles.
How strange to be in paradise while receiving news that Canadian wildfire smoke had spread to Chicago.
I texted my parents to close their windows and wear masks outdoors.
Lulu announced she wanted to bring all her friends to Portugal, away from the smoky air.
She made a sand birthday cake for her friend Ruby.
Invented a character named Seaweed Seaweed.
Jumped in the waves.
On the beach, she felt no hunger, thirst, or boredom.
To her, the icy water wasnt cold at all.
We ended our ocean-oriented day at the Martinhals beachfront seafood restaurant, As Dunas.
Lulu heard about the fresh-caught fish list and requested sardines just for me.
It was a test, in a way.
Whether Lulu would remember.
Whats a family vacation without one last twist?
We had left it behind on our train ride back to Lisbon.
Im not proud to admit that I wept in front of my daughter for a full 20 minutes.
We had stayed overnight at the sleek, newly opened Martinhal Lisbon Oriente.
After these efforts proved futile, Lulu tried to console me during the drive to the airport.
We agreed that wed take more photos and make more memories.
I told her that Id write about our trip, share our familys stories with readers.
Taberna da Rua das Flores:Wonderfully inventive Portuguese small plates.
Line up early for the 6 p.m. seating.
Better for older children who can sit still in the narrow dining room.
Hospital de Bonecas:Entrancing hospital where dolls are repaired, plus a museum.
Miniature enthusiasts will have a field day in the gift shop.
Museu da Marioneta:A well-curated collection of puppets from around the world, with fun, interactive displays.
Tile-painting workshops are also available.
High glamour for parents and comfort for kids.
Floresta Cafe by Hungry Biker:A great, affordable option in a touristy part of central Porto.
Try the green smoothies and the pancakes with ricotta, fruit, and nuts.
Livraria Lello:Famed as the most beautiful bookstore in the world.
Reserve timed tickets, and be prepared for crowds.
Dinner at the Garden Barbecue is especially memorable.
Its seafood restaurant, As Dunas, has the best ocean view.
