But as exports exploded in the late 1800s, the city began to grow.
Barely a block away, architect Rino Levis pyramidal FIESP Cultural Center leaned coolly back among its straight-shouldered neighbors.
There may be no metropolis on earth more defiantly modern.
Relaxing poolside at the Rosewood São Paulo; the Emerald Garden Pool at the Rosewood was designed to emulate the rivers of Brazil’s Bonito region.Carmen Campos
Standing there on Paulista, Scarpa and I stared down into a canyon of cement and steel.
The towers, some designed by immigrants, some by second-generation Brazilians, opened along the avenue like teeth.
To me, there is nocity more beautifulthan Sao Paulo, but to call it that is not uncontroversial.
From left: Brazilian actress Thais Lago at Rosewood São Paulo’s Emerald Garden bar; the Lausanne apartment building, a Midcentury Modern landmark in the Higienópolis neighborhood.Carmen Campos
Seen from above, Sao Paulo seemed both monotonous and unhinged.
Sao Paulos most affluent residents sought luxury by leaving the city center behind.
The Rosewood Sao Paulo suggests the ascendant pull of the citys urban core.
Views of Parque Burle Marx abound at Palácio Tangará hotel, from the Grand Suite (left) to the outdoor pool and Pateo do Palácio dining area (above).Carmen Campos
Things can transform at any time.
Things can transform at any time.
(The tilde-shaped tower is so vast it commands its own zip code.)
Inside the São Paulo Museum of Art, the “Abdias Nascimento: A Panamefrican Artist” exhibition showcases paintings by the Brazilian activist.Carmen Campos
Because what is food from Sao Paulo?
A bit of everything.
Shiraishi is third-generation Japanese-Brazilian, the granddaughter of immigrants who came over in the early 20th century.
From left: The Luciana Brito Gallery, located in a house designed by Brazilian architect Rino Levi; artist and proprietor Maria Monteiro at Sé Galeria.Carmen Campos
Shed agreed to show me around the Liberdade district, the historic heart of Sao Paulos Japanese diaspora.
The people around me had given themselves over to the citys insatiable hunger for all things beautiful and new.
People gather for selfies under arcing red street lamps and eat atizakayaand ramen shops.
Rosewood São Paulo’s vertical garden wall (left) and breakfast at the hotel’s Le Jardin (right).Carmen Campos
I like to think that Japanese immigrants gave this place its character, Shiraishi told me.
From this sad history we made a place thats vibrant, where people come to try new things.
Freedom has never been a given in Sao Paulo.
From there, I wandered down from Paulistas ridge until I reached the city center.
As the heat subsided, I settled in at a raucousbotecocalled Copanzinho.
Rio, Id been told on previous trips, has its beaches; Sao Paulo has its sidewalks.
My table was crowded with friends and friends of friends from Ecuador, Chile, and Brazil.
Countless empty beer glasses accumulated as the evening wore on.
But here, everyone seemed at home.
It was remarkable, I said, that everyone around us seemed to be from here.
Ill bet you, he said with a laugh, that almost no one here is from Sao Paulo.
He may have been exaggerating, but I took his point.
The people around me had given themselves over to the citys insatiable hunger for all things beautiful and new.
Copanzinho:A casual streetside dinner spot for burgers, beer, and plenty of caipirinhas.
