Even today, after 600 years of human encroachment, their amazement is easy to understand.

Those first men who arrived on the island called it Madeira the Portuguese word for wood.

The Atlantic affects the climate, the wildlife, and the food.

Swimmers at Faja dos Padres Beach, in Madeira, Portugal

The beach at Fajã dos Padres.Rodrigo Cardoso

Those sailors, I thought, should have called their discovery mar the sea.

My interest in this place pre-dates my realization that itwasa place.

Still, it turns out that there is no better location than Madeira in which to drink Madeira.

Reid’s Palace, perched on top of a cliff in Funchal, Madeira

Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel, sits on a cliff in Funchal.Rodrigo Cardoso

The wine and the place are as intertwined as their common name suggests.

The Atlantic affects the climate, the wildlife, and the food.

Those sailors, I thought, should have called their discovery mar the sea.

Chef preparing tuna at Kampo restaurant in Madeira

A chef prepares braised tuna with razor clam risotto at Kampo restaurant.Rodrigo Cardoso

For centuries, right up until the advent of air travel, almost everyone stopped in Madeira.

Columbus briefly lived on the island.

The acidity endures, the nutty, caramel flavors deepen.

Two photos from Madeira, Portugal, showing a hiker along the island’s levadas, and the main cable car

From left: A hike along one of Madeira’s many levadas, channels built to bring water to the dry lowlands; the cable car to the gardens of Monte Palace Madeira.Rodrigo Cardoso

In an era when wine that traveled usually arrived as vinegar, this was incredible.

And Madeirans grew rich on their wine’s resilience.

Past a small museum and a stately row of giant wooden vats, we arrived at a tasting room.

Two photos showing the gardens, with lounge chairs, and the pool, at Quinta da Casa Branca in Madeira

From left: The garden at Quinta da Casa Branca in Madeira; the hotel’s pool, surrounded by gorgeous foliage.Rodrigo Cardoso

He casually opened a 2002 Sercial, made from one of the five Madeira grape varieties.

It wasn’t sweet, although there were toffee and stewed-apple flavors, as well as a lemony acidity.

It also wasn’t old.

The tea terrace at Reids Palace in Funchal

The terrace at Reid’s Palace.Rodrigo Cardoso

Unlike other wines, Madeira lasts almost indefinitely.

And that was in 1811.

It was in these hills that the rich built their summer homes.

A guest suite at Les Suite at The Cliff Bay, in Madeira

A guest suite at Les Suite at The Cliff Bay, in Madeira.Rodrigo Cardoso

There was no dedicated path: cars had to stop for us, but there were few.

It was as exhilarating as a fairground ride, and a lot more immediate.

I don’t mind admitting that I hollered.

photos from Madeira, including an outdoor wine tasting, and a banana dish

From left: The patio at Quinta do Barbusano winery; scabbard fish with banana and potato salad at Pátio das Babosas.Rodrigo Cardoso

We padded through the beautiful grounds of our hotel, Quinta da Casa Branca.

“We are like a Swiss cheese, full of holes!”

our driver said cheerily.

Dolphins swim off the coast of Madeira

From left: dolphins off the coast of Funchal; cozido panela tacos with dijon at Galaxia Skyfood restaurant at the Savoy Palace.Rodrigo Cardoso

How those tunnels through the hills, built around 30 years ago, transformed the island!

The food played skillfully with Madeiran tradition.

Did he protect his worshippers?

An artisan working on an embroidery pattern at the Bordal embroidery workshop in Madeira

An artisan working on an embroidery pattern at the Bordal embroidery workshop in Madeira.Rodrigo Cardoso

In the 16th century, they covered the ceiling in paintings to honor him.

The taste was dangerously pleasant.

Drinks in hand, we edged out the back door into dazzling sunshine.

Patrons of neighboring bars relaxed at tables and fishing boats bobbed in front of us.

No wonder that when Winston Churchill visited the island, he went there to paint.

Perhaps it was a coincidence.

“Hello gorgeous!”

whispered Margarida Sousa, as the first dolphin glided alongside our motorboat.

“If the phone rings a lot, it’s a good sign!”

The phone rang a lot.

When the dolphins flanked us, we slid into the water, dangling from ropes to minimize splashing.

We wore masks but no snorkels, and I was so absorbed that remembering to breathe became a nuisance.

Quinta da Casa Branca: A garden oasis in the heart of Funchal.Rooms from $230.

Kampo: Find surprising, seasonal fare at Madeira’s most innovative restaurant.Entrees $16-$66.

Patio das Babosas: Visit this mountainside spot for stellar seafood and views of Funchal.Entrees $8$24.

Engenhos do Norte: This rum distillery is a last vestige of Madeira’s once dominant sugarcane industry.

Monte Palace Madeira: The lush gardens are reachable via a scenic cable car.

Quinta do Barbusano: Try the Aragonez at this winery on the northern coast.

A version of this story first appeared in the October 2021 issue ofTravel + Leisureunder the headlineThe Big Blue.