You smell the old wood of the sailing boat, the design of which goes back centuries.
Todays trade is mostly tourism, but Lamu still feels beautifully separated from the rest of the world.
Their message was simple: relax.
From left: The minaret of the mosque in Shela village, on Lamu Island; a dhow sailing off the coast of Lamu.Credit:From left: Eric Lafforgue/Art in All of Us/Getty Images; C1R/Shutterstock
The interior of the hotel was cool, airy, and white.
Just feet away, the water was clear as glass.
Courtesy of Peponi Hotel
We were also traveling with my friend Shalini, whod never been to Lamu before.
The exterior of Lamu’s Peponi Hotel.Courtesy of Peponi Hotel
She looked around and beamed, then said: I want to come back already.
Lamu has a seductive power thats stronger than just about anywhere else Ive been.
Yes, celebrities from the Obamas to Madonna, Kate Moss, and Mick Jagger have discovered it.
From left: A door in Shela village; the Riyadha Mosque, a center for learning in the region.From left: Khadija Farah; Sylvain Grandadam/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
In a world coming to pieces, Lamu was exactly what the doctor ordered.
But Lamus real beauty is that it hasnt let success go to its head.
Since then Ive been back more than 20 times.
A courtyard at the Peponi Hotel.Courtesy of Peponi Hotel
Why do we like it so much?
youre enveloped head to toe by the Indian Ocean, warm every day of the year.
From left: Khadija Farah; Sylvain Grandadam/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
The Peponi Hotel is another reason.
Carol Korschen, whose family owns Peponi, is not only manager but chief executive organizer.
On the first full day of a recent nine-day vacation, we caught Peponis dhow into Lamu Town.
As we meandered through the alleyways, we had to pause in a few places for donkey traffic.
They were so cool, sweet, and delicious that I had two.
We felt safe in the town, and everywhere on Lamu Island.
Thats unwarranted, I think.
There have been no serious incidents on the island in years.
We spent the rest of our days hanging out at the beach and doing watersports.
In general, Swahili food is among the continents most delicious.
Peponis restaurant has perfected the execution of classic Swahili dishes.
Wed typically follow that with ginger crab, linguine with crab, or barbecued reef fish.
Toward the end of our trip we decided to try and catch our own dinner.
We hired the charismatic guide Babuu Mohamed for a little help.
We invited Mohamed to join us for dinner.
This, perhaps, is Lamus greatest virtue: there isnt an us-versus-them dynamic between tourists and locals.
Even if you are staying at a nice hotel, you feel like youre living in a village.
You hear the happy murmur of kids playing all around you.
You get invited to pickup soccer games on the beach.
I see why you like this place, Shalini said a little later.
Lamu isnt just pretty; its fascinating.
Its a community that lets you in, even if only briefly.
I guess its not surprising that Ive never known anyone to go there only once.
Im hoping to get back at least another 20 times.
