Courtesy of Cristina Lopez
On the summit of Kosovos highest peak, nothing stirred.
Starkly sublime mountains stretched out on all sides, towering over glacial lakes and fields of wildflowers.
Our journey had begun five days earlier in Albanias capital, Tirana.
Clodagh Kinsella while hiking the trail through the Balkans.Credit:Courtesy of Cristina López
The trip was shockingly cheap: Our average daily budget all in was $40 per head.
The first day of hiking was a baptism of fire.
Most of the time, we were never exactly sure when wed crossed a country border.
Clodagh (R) and Cristina (L) while atop Gjeravica Peak in Kosovo.Courtesy of Cristina López
Accommodations on the trail are straightforward, though theres no shortage of hearty food.
In a luxurious touch, there was a minibar and a fine terrace for stargazing.
This part of Kosovo is something truly special, Shoshi toldTravel + Leisure.
Scenic view of Durmitor National Park in Montenegro.Courtesy of Cristina López
The landscapes are untouched and peaceful.
Plus, its a place where the ancient traditions of the highlanders are still very much alive.
Here, welcoming guests isnt just a polite gesture; its almost sacred.
Boats mored in the water of Perast, Montenegro.Clodagh Kinsella/Travel + Leisure
With a background in heritage and tourism, Shoshi witnessed a sea of change since the 19981989 Kosovo war.
Locals had emerged from it full of solidarity and a love of freedom.
Today, when you visit Kosovo, you wont find despair, he said.
The view while on the hike to Cabin on a Rock in Kosovo.Courtesy of Cristina López
Youll find a zest for life.
At guesthouses all along the way, that zest for life was palpable.
One hostess tried to refuse payment for lunch when our cash ran low.
It has transformed a mountainous, pastoral, poor region into a model of tourism, he said.
Theres a lot of money coming in, and everybodys profiting.
It really makes me quite emotional.
They were poor and now theyve got pride, they work, they make their own money.
After British and German hikers, Americans are now Gacaferris third-biggest market.
For others like us, the simplicity is magical.
Tacking on a week of R&R post-hike is common.
From the moment we arrived in Durmitor National Park, we were under its spell.
An entering it on foot was a voyage to remember.
For more information, see theFacebook pagededicated to the trail.
