Tucked away on Brazils remote Bahian coast, Trancoso is an unspoiled, bohemian beach getaway.
The food seemed to appear as though by magic from a tiny kitchen hidden in the mangroves.
These are my designs, she said in nearly accentless English.
From left: Model Franciele Jesus dos Santos wears a Farm Rio dress at Uxua Casa Hotel & Spa, a boutique hotel in Trancoso, Brazil; Casa do Lago, one of the accommodations at Uxua Casa Hotel & Spa, overlooks a natural, swimmable lake.Credit:Marta Tucci
I bought one, and rather than pushing me to purchase a second, she walked away.
Which is to say, artisans first, salespeople second.
Uxuas debut brought more attention to the region.
The Atlantic coast near Trancoso, Brazil.Marta Tucci
Its cofounder, Wilbert Das, is the Dutch-born former creative director of the Italian fashion label Diesel.
He first visited Trancoso in 2004 and immediately fell in love with the area.
On a subsequent visit, he convinced his friend and business partner Bob Shevlin to come along.
From left: The bar at the restaurant Jacaré do Brasil; fish wrapped in banana leaves at Capim Santo.Marta Tucci
They got to talking and, by 2009, had opened Uxua.
Since then, Das has become something of an unofficial mayor in Trancoso.
And, as often happens in migrations like this, the hippies paved the way for the artists.
From left: Breakfast at Uxua includes fruit, yogurt, and homemade granola; local Sarita Santos snacks at the Uxua beach bar.Marta Tucci
They all came for the same reasons: the natural beauty and the freedom.
Along with the free-love sensibility came a sense of responsibility, Das added.
People learned that preservation is a good thing.
Local flora in Trancoso.Marta Tucci
They knew they had something precious.
At Uxuas restaurant, we could have happily orderedmoqueca thetraditional Bahian seafoodstew every night.
After dinner each night, we strolled around the Quadrado.
From left: Brazilian beachwear at Uxua beach club; siesta time on the beach in Trancoso.Marta Tucci
Cars were notably absent, as were any international chain stores.
That changed with the December 2021 opening of the Hotel Fasano Trancoso.
(The stylish Brazilian hotel group is best known for its swanky properties inRio de Janeiroand Sao Paulo.)
From left: Now part of Uxua Casa, Zé e Zilda was formerly a private home; Trancoso native Franciele Jesus dos Santos poses against one of Uxua Casa’s colorful bungalows.Marta Tucci
Trancoso has always been forgotten, which is why its survived so well.
The restaurant is one of the best in Trancoso.
Uxua Praia, the hotels beach club and bar, is an easy eight-minute stroll.
From left: Resident Nina Borges takes a sunset dip at Coqueiros Beach; crossing the Trancoso River on horseback.Marta Tucci
The settingan open- air dining room shrouded in palm fronds off the Quadradois quintessential Trancoso.
Jacare do Brasil
Dining at this design showroom-slash-restaurant is as much an aesthetic experience as a gustatory one.
From left: Uxua Praia, on Coqueiros Beach; the Lakeside Suite at Casa do Lago.Marta Tucci
From left: Uxua Casa’s restaurant is set under a canopy of trees; the spa at Uxua Casa, which integrates Indigenous healing practices and Brazilian products in its treatments.Marta Tucci
Octopus with spicy potatoes, quail egg, and aioli at Jacaré do Brasil.Marta Tucci
A swimming pool at Hotel Fasano Trancoso, which fronts Itapororoca Beach.Marta Tucci
