The streets buzz with motorbikes and vendors selling falafel and freshaish baladi,the ubiquitous traditional flatbread.

One of them is Adrere Amellals creator, Mounir Neamatalla.

(Going by car from the capital takes 12 hours along the coast on bumpy, mostly empty roads.

Two photos from Adrere Amelia resort in Siwa, Egypt, including an overview of the mud buildings, and a portrait of the property’s manager

From left: The buildings of Adrère Amellal, which sit beside Siwa Lake, are made of a mixture of salt and clay; the hotel’s manager, Mohamed Gegal, with White Mountain in the background.Manuel Obadia-Wills

Aside from the gloriouswhite-sand beaches, history buffs can examine several World War IIshipwrecksalong the coast.)

After more than two decades of anticipation, arriving at Adrere Amellal felt almost surreal.

A massive spring-fed pool was perfect for taking a cooling dip.

Two photos from Siwa, Egypt, one showing a woman sitting beside blue water, and one showing a stone-walled resort guest room

From left: A guest dips her toes in the salty waters of the lake; thick walls shield guest rooms from the desert heat.Manuel Obadia-Wills

In 1996, Neamatalla was 50 years old and at a crossroads in his career.

When an anthropologist colleague suggested he visit Siwa and explore its ruins, Neamatalla readily agreed.

We arrived after twelve hours of driving, and the sun was about to go down, he said.

Two photos from Siwa, Egypt, one showing jeeps on a dune, and one showing an oasis-style pool at a desert resort

From left: Off-roading on desert dunes, a popular excursion in Siwa; Adrère Amellal’s spring-fed pool.Manuel Obadia-Wills

I immediately recognized that my fate was tied to these two places.

Neamatalla gives much credit to his longtime collaborator and cousin, the Iranian-Egyptian architect and designer India Mahdavi.

Construction took place without blueprints.

Aerial view of a desert resort in Egypt featuring buildings constructed from mud

Adrère Amellal, in Siwa, Egypt, as seen from neighboring White Mountain.Manuel Obadia-Wills

(Eight is the ideal number for unified conversation, Neamatalla told me.)

I would find out that dinner locations change every night, but are often outdoors, under the stars.

All of the organic produce and herbs used are grown on site.

Two photos from Adrere Amellal resort in Siwa, Egypt, including a man putting candlesticks in a fire, and a portrait of the resort’s owner

From left: A staff member preparing candlesticks—an important resource at this electricity-free hotel; Mounir Neamatalla, founder of the hotel.Manuel Obadia-Wills

Part of that connection is creative collaboration.

Their work is sold both at the hotel and in Cairos top design showrooms, thanks to Lailas connections.

It encompasses several building renovations, where locals are trained inkershefbuilding techniques.

I was met by crumbling facades reminiscent of jagged teeth, like a sandy-hued Dali painting come to life.

Amid the ruins, the three dozen fully restored buildings stood triumphant.

These included two ancient mosques and a space that is used as a health clinic.

Neamatalla has also partnered with Egypts Ministry of Tourism & Antiquities to create a pioneering museum.

It is set to open in 2025.

There is no electricity or Wi-Fi, so guests are able to fully connect with the desert surroundings.