While some parts of Sicily feel overexposed, theres still treasure to be found in Noto.
Francesco Lastrucci
To be the mayor of Noto is not such a terrible life.
To my mind, this little city in southeasternSicilyis one of the most enchanting in all of Europe.
Balconies overlooking the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, in Noto, Sicily.Credit:Francesco Lastrucci
The whole place looks like a movie set (a steamy episode ofThe White Lotuswas filmed there).
On my recent visit, I asked the mayor, Corrado Figura, to explain Notos beauty.
After that, Notos people decided to build a new city.
Calamosche Beach.Francesco Lastrucci
They wanted the help of the most important architects of the time.
It was all done in a uniform style, the Baroque style.
And we havent lost our identity, he added.
From left: Evening drinks alfresco; pizza at La Vecchia Fontana.Francesco Lastrucci
If you pay attention to your past, you’re free to actually feel it.
He suggested we stay atQ92 Noto Hotel,which is right in the center of town.
We ordered the same flavors at both, chocolate and ricotta (basically an extra-sweet vanilla).
From left: Gaia Quartucci, the manager of the Q92 hotel; a guest room at Q92.Francesco Lastrucci
The verdict wasnt even close.
Costanzo was by far creamier and richer.
And it came with a free cookie.
Flamingoes in the Pantano Piccolo, in the Vendicari Nature Reserve.Francesco Lastrucci
As my wife, Courtenay, said, Whats not to like?
Visitors drifted in and out.
This is basically what you do in Noto.
From left: A granita seller at the Vendicari Nature Reserve; the steps of Noto Cathedral.Francesco Lastrucci
You marvel that there are places that still really look like this.
Sicilian nobles lived large.
Noto is not quite on the coast, but it isnt far from several great swimming spots.
From left: Baroque details on a building in Noto; a courtyard sculpture at Q92 Noto Hotel.Francesco Lastrucci
Calamosche Beach and the Vendicari Nature Reserve were stunning.
But the beach a perfect cove with calm, clear water was more than worth it.
The nature reserve, which consists of a string of marshes and beaches, is a bird-watching hot spot.
From left: A view from Palazzo Nicolaci, in Noto, Sicily; tangerine gelato from Noto’s Caffè Costanzo.Francesco Lastrucci
We saw flamingos, sandpipers, storks, and graceful herons gliding over the rich swamp grass.
Its even better than it sounds.
That was just one of the trips many gastronomic highlights.
From left: Tables outside of Gelati Bianco, on the Corso Vittorio Emanuele; pasta at La Vecchia Fontana.Francesco Lastrucci
I was also a big fan ofLa Vecchia Fontana, a pizzeria and bar near the towns entrance gate.
We capped off our last evening atGelati Bianca, which had become our favorite.
You know how some ice cream servers make you feel bad if you ask for too many tastes?
Brothers Francesco, Stefano and Alessandro at their restaurant, Nachè.Francesco Lastrucci
Not at this joint.
Ours offered samples of flavors we hadnt even requested.
Try this, he said.
Procession with costumed drummers in via Cavour, during the annual Infiorata celebration weekend; flower displays cover via Nicolaci during Inforiata.Francesco Lastrucci
It left the perfect aftertaste of biscotti.
And give this to mama.
That night there was something irresistible about the combination of the air, the light, the setting.
A busker strummed soft-rock classics on his guitar.
A few dozen people sat on the churchs steps eating ice cream and listening.
The local people, she said, didnt know they had gold in their hands.
