While some parts of Sicily feel overexposed, theres still treasure to be found in Noto.

Francesco Lastrucci

To be the mayor of Noto is not such a terrible life.

To my mind, this little city in southeasternSicilyis one of the most enchanting in all of Europe.

Two men on a balcony in Noto, Sicily

Balconies overlooking the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, in Noto, Sicily.Credit:Francesco Lastrucci

The whole place looks like a movie set (a steamy episode ofThe White Lotuswas filmed there).

On my recent visit, I asked the mayor, Corrado Figura, to explain Notos beauty.

After that, Notos people decided to build a new city.

Beachgoes and umbrellas at Calamosche beach

Calamosche Beach.Francesco Lastrucci

They wanted the help of the most important architects of the time.

It was all done in a uniform style, the Baroque style.

And we havent lost our identity, he added.

Pair of photos from Sicily, one showing people sitting on stairs, and one showing a pizza topped with cheese and slices of boiled egg

From left: Evening drinks alfresco; pizza at La Vecchia Fontana.Francesco Lastrucci

If you pay attention to your past, you’re free to actually feel it.

He suggested we stay atQ92 Noto Hotel,which is right in the center of town.

We ordered the same flavors at both, chocolate and ricotta (basically an extra-sweet vanilla).

Two photos from Sicily, one showing a portrait of a woman, and one showing an ornate hotel guest room

From left: Gaia Quartucci, the manager of the Q92 hotel; a guest room at Q92.Francesco Lastrucci

The verdict wasnt even close.

Costanzo was by far creamier and richer.

And it came with a free cookie.

Flamingoes on a pond in Sicily

Flamingoes in the Pantano Piccolo, in the Vendicari Nature Reserve.Francesco Lastrucci

As my wife, Courtenay, said, Whats not to like?

Visitors drifted in and out.

This is basically what you do in Noto.

Pair of photos from Sicily, one showing a granita truck, and one showing the steps of a cathedral.

From left: A granita seller at the Vendicari Nature Reserve; the steps of Noto Cathedral.Francesco Lastrucci

You marvel that there are places that still really look like this.

Sicilian nobles lived large.

Noto is not quite on the coast, but it isnt far from several great swimming spots.

Pair of photos showing architectural details in Sicily, one showing a window, and one showing a sculpture

From left: Baroque details on a building in Noto; a courtyard sculpture at Q92 Noto Hotel.Francesco Lastrucci

Calamosche Beach and the Vendicari Nature Reserve were stunning.

But the beach a perfect cove with calm, clear water was more than worth it.

The nature reserve, which consists of a string of marshes and beaches, is a bird-watching hot spot.

Pair of photos from Sicily, one showing the view from a palace, and one showing a bowl of gelato

From left: A view from Palazzo Nicolaci, in Noto, Sicily; tangerine gelato from Noto’s Caffè Costanzo.Francesco Lastrucci

We saw flamingos, sandpipers, storks, and graceful herons gliding over the rich swamp grass.

Its even better than it sounds.

That was just one of the trips many gastronomic highlights.

Pair of photos from Sicily, one showing diners at outdoor tables, and one showing two plates of filled pasta

From left: Tables outside of Gelati Bianco, on the Corso Vittorio Emanuele; pasta at La Vecchia Fontana.Francesco Lastrucci

I was also a big fan ofLa Vecchia Fontana, a pizzeria and bar near the towns entrance gate.

We capped off our last evening atGelati Bianca, which had become our favorite.

You know how some ice cream servers make you feel bad if you ask for too many tastes?

Three men at a restaurant table

Brothers Francesco, Stefano and Alessandro at their restaurant, Nachè.Francesco Lastrucci

Not at this joint.

Ours offered samples of flavors we hadnt even requested.

Try this, he said.

Pair of photos from Sicily, one showing drummers, and one showing a street covered in flowers

Procession with costumed drummers in via Cavour, during the annual Infiorata celebration weekend; flower displays cover via Nicolaci during Inforiata.Francesco Lastrucci

It left the perfect aftertaste of biscotti.

And give this to mama.

That night there was something irresistible about the combination of the air, the light, the setting.

A busker strummed soft-rock classics on his guitar.

A few dozen people sat on the churchs steps eating ice cream and listening.

The local people, she said, didnt know they had gold in their hands.