Travel by train (and ferry) around Kyushu, a center of onsen culture.

This time, my pre-breakfast bath was shrouded in morning mist and steam.

But despite the natural beauty and seductively laid-back tempo, the island is often overlooked by visitors from overseas.

View of rice terraces surrounding a resort in Japan

Guest cabins at Kai Yufuin, a new resort surrounded by rice terraces on the Japanese island of Kyushu.Credit:Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts

Like many hotels in the area, Kai Yufuin has one on site.

It was a backdrop worthy of a woodblock print.

After boarding the streamlined white-and-red train car, I sank into my seat and soaked up the passing views.

On onsen at a resort in Japan

The onsen at Kai Yufuin.Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts

A tray and baskets with breakfast at a Japanese resort

Kai Yufuin’s traditional breakfast.Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts

A woman prepares a box at a tea house in Japan

Vera Tokunaga, co-owner of Tea House Tokunaga.Courtesy of Tea House Tokunaga

View from a guest room at a hotel in Kyushu

Rooms at Goto Retreat Ray have private outdoor baths.COURTESY OF OKCS RETREAT GOTO RAY