In Biarritz, old-school glamour meets shaggy surf culture and creates an irresistible mix.
Yet it took little effort to imagine the place as the emperor knew it.
It is now the unapologetically baroque Hotel du Palais Biarritz, where I would be staying.
Surfers at Côte des Basques, a beach in Biarritz, France.Credit:Ambroise Tézenas
This little spell did not last long.
Or, I should say, it was quickly replaced by another.
I wanted to go immediately.
From left: The patio at Cheri Bibi; trout tartare and tuna tataki with edamame at Le Néo-Bistrot, a restaurant at Hôtel Le Garage.Ambroise Tézenas
Art aficionados were making pilgrimages, as were fashion types and foodies.
Its definitely an interesting moment here, said Diane Ruengsorn, a recent transplant.
We met up at Jack the Cockerel, a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the Grande Plage.
From left: A mussel-and-sweet potato soup at Cheri Bibi, in Biarritz; Casa Juan Pedro, a classic Basque-style fish restaurant in Biarritz, is owned by twin brothers Jean and Paul.Ambroise Tézenas
Its kind of the opposite of the bling and the yachts of the Cote dAzur, Ruengsorn remarked.
Like most people I met in Biarritz, Ruengsorn has led a number of interesting lives.
Originally from California, she worked in New Yorks magazine world, atGourmetandSaveur,before decamping to Paris.
From left: The pool at Hôtel Le Garage; La Rotonde Côté Maison, the restaurant at Hôtel du Palais Biarritz.Ambroise Tézenas
Stifled by strict lockdown measures in Paris during COVID, she and her husband relocated to Biarritz.
Its an area that still feels ripe for discovery in so many ways, she said.
Add in the influence of surf culture and the result is some seriously choice people-watching.
Villa Belza, in Biarritz.Ambroise Tézenas
Dozens of people sunbathed on the seawall; others sipped Spritzes at the cafes lining the promenade.
Crazy what passes for real life here, Ruengsorn said.
And then I burned out and came here, Balkis said with a laugh.
From left: The reception desk at Les Hortensias du Lac; owners Ada Zitouni and Edouard Mineo at Sunburn Store, a surf shop in Biarritz.Ambroise Tézenas
Here everything is more elemental and I am more sane, she went on.
More recently, its rugged beaches and excellent waves have made it Europes primary surfing hub.
The skies, however, had a different agenda.
From left: Ostalapia, a restaurant and farm stay outside Biarritz; mountain views from the terrace of Ostalapia.Ambroise Tézenas
More Trip Ideas:This Is the No.
And you feel incredible right now, do you not?
Whatever you do, you leave feeling better than when you arrived.
From left: The lounge at Les Hortensias du Lac, a hotel in Hossegor; contemporary art at the gallery Champ Lacombe.Ambroise Tézenas
The rain let up the following morning, allowing me to tour Hossegor on one of the hotels e-bikes.
The French can still be snobby and classist, which I can say as a Frenchman.
It is particularly evident in the many new restaurants that have elevated and diversified an already rich dining culture.
Surfers on the beach near Les Hortensias du Lac hotel, in Hossegor.Ambroise Tézenas
Outside I met two of them, Maia Ibar and Tristan Martineau, an artist couple.
It was Ibars mother who found the space.
Tristan and I had been doing the long-distance thing for too long.
Hôtel du Palais Biarritz.Ambroise Tézenas
We were ready for a change, so we took this over.
Yes, Biarritz has changed, she said.
But it is still a place where you’re free to surf and get weird."
Maïa Ibar, Lee-Ann Curren, and Tristan Martineau at Pioche Projects, a Biarritz artists’ space.Ambroise Tézenas
They led me inside: Exposed rafters and cement floors.
A tattered Persian rug.
Stacks of paintings in every corner.
This is for special nights, he said.
For when you want to show off and have some fun.
Its not your normal version of those things, Martineau said.
Its punk rock meets New Age.
Yes, Biarritz has changed, she said.
And thats not changing anytime soon.
Club Sandwich:A funky little spot offering natural wines and elevated takes on classic sandwiches.
Come dusk, they often bring out a DJ and throw a party in the street.
Frenchie:An outpost of the popular Paris restaurant, tucked inside the Regina Experimental hotel.
La Table de Megumi:A quaint, unexpected Japanese-influenced spot set along the picturesque harbor in Ciboure.
La Patisserie Graphique:Wander into this surf-inspired gallery for affordable prints and exhibits of work by local artists.
Check their Instagram for whats on tap.
