Wicklow is also where many Anglo-Irish families lived before the country gained independence in 1921.
Several of the grand houses and gardens from those years are now open to the public.
Powerscourt Estate stretches from the foothills of the Wicklow Mountains down to a deep river.
From left: Powerscourt Hotel Resort & Spa, built on the grounds of an 18th-century estate; tending the gardens at Powerscourt Estate, which were designed in the mid 19th century.Al Higgins
Our suite of rooms overlooked the hotel gardens.
The river was limpid, whiskey-colored; the trees, in full summer leaf, met overhead.
In August, the sun sets slowly at this latitude, and we found we’d timed dinner perfectly.
Ireland’s Wicklow Mountains National Park takes in nearly 80 square miles.Al Higgins
The hills and trees were fading into dusk by the time we went to our very comfortable beds.
Our driver dropped us off by a wooded lane that passed hill farms and rose to heathland.
There we entered the national park and followed a path that traced an escarpment above a dark lake.
From left: Owner Patrick Ryan at the Firehouse Bakery, in Delgany; a portrait in Killruddery’s dining room of William Brabazon, a member of the family that has owned the estate since 1618.Al Higgins
We followed the path around the curve of Kanturk, then crossed boggy ground over the pass to Scarr.
There was a little rain, a little sun, and scudding clouds.
Over there’s home, said Felix.
Old home, Matt corrected.
Its tower still stands, and the graveyard holds the dead of the past 1,300 years.
We wandered, reading the epitaphs, imagining a millennium of local lives.
We climbed through pine forest and out onto moorland again.
The Wicklow Way crosses Djouce’s shoulder, and we hesitated at the turnoff to the top.
Too windy, said Felix, but he was outvoted.
Up we went, and watched the weather blowing in from Wales.
Then we explored another famous estate,Killruddery, still the home of the earl and countess of Meath.
A version of this story first appeared in the August 2022 issue ofTravel + Leisureunder the headlineGarden Leave.
