Just outside San Miguel de Allende, theres a crew of dynamic winemakers reviving centuries-old traditions.
It was August, the peak of harvest season, and Taylor Goodall was driving me toCava Garambullo.
The small winery is 15 minutes north ofSan Miguel de Allende, where Goodall opened the five-bedroomHotel Amparo.
David Alvarado
“It’s kind of undiscovered right now.”
In town, this shows.
Local wines are not common on menus, and most people order beer ortequila.
From left: The Viñedo San Miguel shop; bottles on display in the winery’s tasting room.David Alvarado
But now, as the area revives its wine heritage, that’s beginning to change.
This motley group of established and new vintners is rediscovering the rhythm of the land.
as Goodall slipped into the assembly line, handing off buckets of Pinot Noir grapes.
From left: Natalia López Mota and Branko Pjanic, owners of Cava Garambullo, with their dog, Medo; a lineup of wine bottles at Cava Garambullo.David Alvarado
Lopez and Pjanic do everything by hand.
As I tasted the Azumbre, its many layers unraveled on my palate.
Lopez described the origins of the Cabernet Franc grapes.
From left: A wine tasting at Dos Búhos, a family-owned vineyard set on a former peach orchard; the sunny patio at Dos Búhos.David Alvarado
“They come from two different terroirs, thirty miles apart.
It adds value for the visitors because they can taste wines from different micro-terroirs.”
“But they left their essence in the ground.
The tasting room at Viñedos San Lucas.David Alvarado
It’s magic.”
She led me to the vineyard for a sampling of rose and a lesson in low-intervention wine.
“One of the many beautiful things that comes from organic winemaking is that we trust nature.”
