United Airlines' invitation-only restaurant, Classified, just reopened after a two-and-a-half-year hiatus.
It’s like art.
The dining experience comes with a special sense of exclusivity thanks to the speakeasy-style subterfuge and invite-only access.
Credit:Courtesy of United
The perk was the invite; the rest would come at a cost.
Tables feature precise controls and brown leather chairs, the lighting is dim and soft jazz plays.
Two large booth sections are housed under overhangs evocative of airplane fuselages.
Courtesy of United
Guests are greeted with a warm towel, followed by an amuse-bouche.
On my visit, it was an endive-and-beet salad, followed by the delivery of bread and butter.
It feels a bit like the airline’s format for business-class service for long-haul flights.
Courtesy of United
To go with my martini, I selected an Arctic char entree with Champagne vinaigrette.
The fish is well-cooked, with thick, crispy skin, and the martini is potent and soul-soothing.
At the end of the meal, a small box of chocolate bonbons was delivered as a parting gift.
Where Classified excels is by making the concept feel like an exclusive experience.
It feels elevated and calming, and the staff goes out of its way to provide attentive service.
It’s a moment, Pasquale says.
