A wine lovers journey along Turkeys ancient Aegean coast.

But they mixed it with honey and water because it was sour.

I had heard that drives around Izmir were long and not always scenic.

People pick grapes in a vineyard in Turkey

Picking grapes at Yanik Ülke Winery.Credit:Courtesy of Yanik Ülke Winery/Türkiye Tourism

Luckily, there were wineries along the way that offered elegant respites from car time.

From 1925 until 2004, Tekel, a state-owned company, dominated Turkish wine production.

Among the few wineries able to compete was Sevilen, founded in 1942 by Bulgarian immigrant Isa Guner.

Pair of photos from Turkey, one showing guests at a winery, and one showing an ancient gate

From left: Nif Winery, in Izmir, Turkey; the Frontinus Gate, in Hierapolis.From left: Courtesy of Nif Winery/Türkiye Tourism; Matthew Figg/Alamy

Full of black-cherry flavor and with coffee-like tannins, its made from Kalecik Karas grapes.

Enjoying a chocolaty, figgy Shiraz and an entrecote, I felt like a modern-day Dionysus.

Third-generation owner Hasan Altntas plans to build a museum of wine making there.

Pair of photos from Turkey, one showing freshly harvested grapes, and one showing a blue and white shop exterior

From left: Harvest time at Nif Winery; the entrance to Hera Sarapevi.From left: Courtesy of Nif Winery/Türkiye Tourism; Courtesy of Hera Sarapevi/Türkiye Tourism

He is also a man imbued with community spirit.

With 289 acres, it is Turkeys biggest organic producer.

A Mini Cooper was parked inside its sprawling tasting room and ancient Roman statues dotted its terrace.

Pair of photos from Turkey, one showing a table with desserts and wine, and one showing spires and rooftops of a town

From left: Desserts and wine at Sevilen’s Isabey vineyard; a view of the town of Şirince.From left: Celal Bayak/Courtesy of Sevilen/Turkiye Tourism; S. Vincent/Alamy

Usca produces just 45,000 bottles a year, less than 3 percent of the output of Lucien Arkas.

Most are sold in its tasting room.

A version of this story first appeared in the October 2024 issue ofTravel + Leisureunder the headline Ancient Flavors.