A wine lovers journey along Turkeys ancient Aegean coast.
But they mixed it with honey and water because it was sour.
I had heard that drives around Izmir were long and not always scenic.
Picking grapes at Yanik Ülke Winery.Credit:Courtesy of Yanik Ülke Winery/Türkiye Tourism
Luckily, there were wineries along the way that offered elegant respites from car time.
From 1925 until 2004, Tekel, a state-owned company, dominated Turkish wine production.
Among the few wineries able to compete was Sevilen, founded in 1942 by Bulgarian immigrant Isa Guner.
From left: Nif Winery, in Izmir, Turkey; the Frontinus Gate, in Hierapolis.From left: Courtesy of Nif Winery/Türkiye Tourism; Matthew Figg/Alamy
Full of black-cherry flavor and with coffee-like tannins, its made from Kalecik Karas grapes.
Enjoying a chocolaty, figgy Shiraz and an entrecote, I felt like a modern-day Dionysus.
Third-generation owner Hasan Altntas plans to build a museum of wine making there.
From left: Harvest time at Nif Winery; the entrance to Hera Sarapevi.From left: Courtesy of Nif Winery/Türkiye Tourism; Courtesy of Hera Sarapevi/Türkiye Tourism
He is also a man imbued with community spirit.
With 289 acres, it is Turkeys biggest organic producer.
A Mini Cooper was parked inside its sprawling tasting room and ancient Roman statues dotted its terrace.
From left: Desserts and wine at Sevilen’s Isabey vineyard; a view of the town of Şirince.From left: Celal Bayak/Courtesy of Sevilen/Turkiye Tourism; S. Vincent/Alamy
Usca produces just 45,000 bottles a year, less than 3 percent of the output of Lucien Arkas.
Most are sold in its tasting room.
A version of this story first appeared in the October 2024 issue ofTravel + Leisureunder the headline Ancient Flavors.