One writer explores the wine bars and market stalls transforming Serbias capital into a must-visit cultural destination.
(Smoking indoors is still legal in bars and restaurants here.)
If traveling nearly full-time has taught me anything, its that youll never be able to do it all.
Saint Sava Cathedral in Belgrade, Serbia.Credit:maylat/Getty Images
Id rather return to the embrace, however fleeting, of the places that make me feel at home.
I only visit Proces twice, but already its the nucleus of my Belgrade.
On this particular occasion, wed been invited by Aleks Zecevic, a Serbian-American journalist.
A park in Serbia.Sophie Dodd/Travel + Leisure
He was house-sitting at a friends place, which was sprawling.
Both of them speak warmly about their hometown.
You still have that village vibe where you know when youre going to drink coffee who will be there.
Guest room in Saint Ten Hotel.Courtesy of Small Luxury Hotels
On the other hand, you have wild nightlife.
The locals share a strong sense of identity and pride, she says.
The hotels glassy facade is perched above two intricately carved balconies, relics of its nearly 100-year history.
Dish from Homa in Belgrade, Serbia.Sophie Dodd/Travel + Leisure
The property offers deluxe waterfront views from 119 rooms and suites, along with the brands signature butler service.
Znak Pitanja (a.k.a.
Reservations are required and recommended.
Diners inside Koordinata.Sophie Dodd/Travel + Leisure
Call ahead or come early, as they tend to sell out.
His aim is to introduce a new generation to classic Balkan dishes, all with appealing contemporary spin.
To top it off, theyve banned smoking indoors.
Rakia bar in Belgrade, Serbia.Sophie Dodd/Travel + Leisure
Its now part ofBelgrade Urban Distillery, which produces more than 20 of its own small-batch rakias in-house.
Ours included rakia distilled from quince, apricot, and plum, as well as a barrel-aged option.
No photos are allowed inside, and reservations are recommended.
Royal Palace in Belgrade, Serbia.Sophie Dodd/Travel + Leisure
The style here is exuberant and playful rather than stuffy or serious.
On my visit, two bartenders tossed shakers back and forth, frothy pink liquid arcing overhead.
He set a small bottle of Heineken in front of me.
Banjska Stena viewpoint in Tara National Park, Serbia.Santiago Urquijo/Getty Images
Makes it breezy, he laughed.
Theres also a small, beautiful chapel on the grounds.
you’re free to also rent bikes, waterski, or go zip lining.
Novi Sad.Sophie Dodd/Travel + Leisure
Its an absolute masterclass in mosaics and like most things in Belgrade, in patience.
Below, a few places to add to your itinerary outside of the countrys vibrant capital.
Viminacium is also home to Mamut Park, which features enormous skeletons of prehistoric mammoths discovered in the area.
