Pelicans skimmed the glassy surface.

“You’ll see,” Estrada said, a proud lilt to his voice.

“There ismuch more to Baja than being hungover in Cabo.”

A woman sits at a table in an open-air common space at a luxury hotel in Mexico

The living room and central garden at Paradero Todos Santos.Credit: Skye Parrott

My education in the limitations of such thinking had begun the previous day.

Few cars, fewer people, no gaudy or glossy development.

The accommodations have generally catered to those looking for fuss-free quarters after a day of snorkeling with sea lions.

Two photos from Baja Club Hotel in La Paz, Mexico, showing the dining room, and a woman relaxing by the pool

From left: The dining room at the Baja Club Hotel, in La Paz; the hotel’s pool.Skye Parrott. Model: Gaby Collado. Wardrobe: Courtesy of Nomad Chic, Todos Santos

It seemed an improbable base camp for adventures like swimming with sharks.

An hour into my excursion, a fierce wind had picked up, ruffling the surface with whitecaps.

After another sharkless hour, Estrada was getting edgy.

A guest rom at the Baja Club Hotel

A guest room at Baja Club.Skye Parrott

When Estrada turned back toward the harbor, however, he suddenly became animated.

He leaped into the water, calling for me to follow him.

“You know how you talk about the body of wine?

Beach chairs and umbrellas at the Four Seasons Resort in Los Cabos, with blue skies and fluffy white clouds in the background

The Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos at Costa Palmas has two miles of private beach lining the Sea of Cortés.Skye Parrott

“The higher the proof, the better the legs.

Good legs walk smoothly down the throat, while bad legs tumble down.”

I tried many, perhaps too many: piney, ashy, bright, citrusy.

An open-air lounge area at a luxury hotel in Mexico

The open-air lobby at the Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos at Costa Palmas.Skye Parrott

In addition to the staff, who were seemingly telepathic, the sense of privacy was astounding.

Though the resort was close to full capacity, we had the feeling of being marooned.

“What is that?”

Exterior and dish from the Four Seasons resort in Los Cabos

From left: The Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos at Costa Palmas; the “Baja seafood pineapple” at Casa de Brasa, a restaurant at the Four Seasons.Skye Parrott

The outdoor spa, still being completed, included a temescal for various ceremonies geared toward spiritual cleansing.

The half-moon infinity pool looked like it could double as a backdrop for experimental theater.

The activities-centric approach gives it the feel of a summer camp for grown-ups.

Two photos show hotel details in Mexico, including a model walking down a spiral staircase, and a model standing in a sunlit doorway

Architectural details at Baja Club Hotel (left) and Paradero Todos Santos (right).Skye Parrott. Model: Gaby Collado. Wardrobe: Courtesy of Nomad Chic, Todos Santos

Erin and I chose two of the more physically demanding options.

Expecting the kid-glove approach often favored by resorts, we were impressed at the arduousness of the excursions.

A half-day biking trip took us through small villages and up steep hills overlooking the ocean.

A guest room at Paradero Todos Santos hotel

Paradero’s 35 suites are appointed with textiles and furnishings made by Mexican artisans.Skye Parrott

These kinds of rugged outings contrasted with the experience of dining at the hotelin the best way possible.

The shrimp zarandeadosfour butterflied, shell-on prawns blackened to a smoky splendorwas the gastronomic highlight of the trip.

This Baja wasn’t going anywhereat least not anytime soon.

Chilaquiles and cocktails at Paradero Todos Santos luxury hotel

From left: Chilaquiles rojos, a breakfast staple at Paradero; cocktails at the hotel bar.Skye Parrott