We were staying at Oasyhotel, an eco-resort at the Oasi Dynamo nature reserve, in Italys Pistoia Mountains.

Grandmothers sunned themselves behind geraniums on wrought-iron balconies.

We reached a stone gateway and parked our car.

Aerial view of a resort complex in the mountains of Italy

Oasyhotel, an eco-resort set on a nature reserve in Italy’s Pistoia Mountains.Credit:Courtesy of Oasyhotel

It felt like the first time in months that wed been unable to hear traffic.

It has been rewilded and conserved in collaboration with the World Wildlife Fund.

Mattia Marasco/Courtesy of Oasyhotel

From its opening in 1911, the bullet factory was the valleys biggest employer.

A kayak on a man-made lake in Italy

Kayaking on the nature reserve’s man-made lake.Mattia Marasco/Courtesy of Oasyhotel

We found many moments of peace at Oasy.

Guests can explore the woods by bike or on foot on nearly 28 miles of trails.

Over many hours of hiking and running, I met no one.

A man holding a stock of six small wheels of cheese

Wheels of caciotta cheese made on the property.Valentina Sommariva/Courtesy of Oasyhotel

We went out again with Ghinassi at night, walking quietly, our flashlights shining between the trees.

The food at Oasy is remarkable.

The young chef, Barnaba Ciuti, takes guests foraging for herbs, flowers, and berries.

A guest cabin at the Oasyhotel retreat in Italy

One of Oasyhotel’s 16 guest lodges.Courtesy of Oasyhotel

There is a vegetable garden and an orchard.

My favorite activity was cheese making.

For Felix, mortadella, prosciutto, and chicken-liver pate.

A woman in a yellow sweater walks on a path in the forest

Gentle hiking paths surround the hotel.Courtesy of Oasyhotel

As we ate, the cows ambled and Romina came out to take her ripe cheeses to market.

When I put the idea to Ghinassi later, she replied, There is.

Its my vision, but people will have to be willing to change.

Two photos from the Oasyhotel resort in Italy, including a guest cabin, and a vegetable dish from the restaurant

From left: The décor in the guest lodges is an updated take on rustic simplicity; Oasy’s modern interpretation of a classic panzanella salad.Nicole Neri/Courtesy of Oasyhotel

Oasy is more than a hotel its a map of how things could be different.

Like an old walled garden, Oasy has a fairy-tale quality.

Im trying not to mention Eden, but I cant quite help it.

you’ve got the option to book your stay atoasyhotel.com; doubles from $278 a night.