That all changed in the 1500s when the Perugians rebelled against the popes tax on salt.

As punishment, the pope forbade the citys citizens from selling their textiles, plunging them into poverty.

The city has its medieval walls intact because we didnt have the Baroque or any other kind of development.

Perugia is the largest city of Umbria, Italy. It has a pristine medieval centre and an international student population. Its historic centre didn’t change in more than 400 years, rises in a helter-skelter of cobbled alleys, arched stairways and squares framed by solemn churches and magnificent Gothic palaces. In this photo You can see the main square.

Piazza IV Novembre in Perugia, Italy.Credit:Piero M. Bianchi/Getty Images

We were frozen in 1540 and remained that way until the unification of Italy.

Now we have a completely authentic medieval city, so now its an advantage.

The other thing Perugia is famous for?

Pool area at hotel

Pool area at Borgo dei Conti Resort.Dario Garofalo/Borgo dei Conti Resort

Yet despite its charms, it remains off the beaten path.

I find that its not well known, which in a way is good because theres no mass tourism.

Its remained authentic, says Cucchia, who I met on my first trip to Perugia.

Inteiror of stained glass museum

Studio Moretti Caselli in Perugia, Italy.Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure

During my most recent visit, I returned to the atelier to get her local tips.

The indoor pool has a glass floor that reveals Etruscan ruins underneath.

Some rooms have wood-beamed ceilings, while others feature original frescoes.

Interior of shops in Perugia

Left: Chocolates from Augusto Perusia; Right: Interior of Pasticceria Sandri.Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure

The subterranean spa is a highlight.

In my opinion, its a must-visit spot to understand the history of the city.

See how Umbrian textiles are made at the Museo Atelier Giuditta Brozzetti.

Italy, Umbria, Perugia, Piazza IV Novembre, cathedral of San Lorenzo and fountain of Maggiore at dusk

Cathedral of San Lorenzo at night.Gary Yeowell/Getty Images

Learn about stained glass at the Studio Moretti Caselli.

Inside it has one of the most beautiful works in Umbria, in my opinion.

Its a life-size stained glass window that depicts Queen Margherita, says Cucchia.

Restaurant inteiror

Interior of Ristorante Il Giurista in Perugia, Italy.Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure

Now a museum/workshop, its open by appointment.

Get lost in the narrow lanes around Piazza IV Novembre.

Even after 50 years, I still discover new things.

The aqueduct and steps leading into the historical city of Perugia on a bright sunny day.

Aqueduct of Perugia, Italy.Christiana Stawski/Getty Images

According to Cucchia, the hotel has been nicely renovated with vintage furniture.

Cucchia loves this bar for its marvelous view of the plains leading to Assisi.

They only use local products, like beans from the lake and lentils from Casteluccio Cucchia says.

Street in old town

Street in Perugia, Italy.Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure

When I have visitors, I bring them there because I know well eat well.

Pasticceria Sandri

Opened in 1860, thishistoric pasticceriais run by the fifth generation of the Schucani family.

Tickets cost 1.50 and are valid for 70 minutes on the minimetro and buses.

Taxi:Radio Taxi Perugiais the citys taxi company.

Download theitTaxiapp or call +39.075.5004888 to hail a taxi.