After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve.
Oh, how times have changed.
Being an underestimated wine region for so many years has turned out to be one of Virginias superpowers.
Foliage at Salamander Middleburg.Credit:Jared Soares
Young winemakers, especially, have been expanding their knowledge and skills and creating an identity found only there.
I wanted to find out if the Virginia wine story was about more than just quantity.
We all know the slogan Virginia Is for Lovers.
Horses grazing at the hotel Salamander Middleburg, in Virginia.Jared Soares
But is it for wine lovers?
The walls are lined with on-theme artwork, and guests can ride horses from the fully equipped stables.
But you dont need to be a member of the horsey set to enjoy a stay at Salamander.
From left: Master of Wine Joshua Grainer at Lost Mountain; the exterior of Keswick Hall.Jared Soares
I began my journey just about a mile down the road atBoxwood Estate Winery.
French wine making was a recurring theme during my tastings.
White Burgundy is my go-to, said Jim Law, founder ofLinden Vineyards.
Vines at Lost Mountain, in Delaplane.Jared Soares
Hes known for experimentation testing new varieties and planting vines in different soils or on varying slopes.
Linden is not a sleek and glamorous winery, and thats how Law likes it.
He also admits to being emotionally attached to his fruit.
A view at Early Mountain Vineyards.Jared Soares
Beyond his own vines, Law praised the diversity and experimental nature of Virginia wine making as a whole.
There is room for everyone to do their own thing, he told me.
Rutger de Vink, a Law protege, is another winemaker who is steadfast in his own practice.
Wine tanks at Lost Mountain.Jared Soares
He laughed heartily when he shared that a farmer had teased him for buying a pile of goddamn rocks.
Its holdings include Chateau Montrose and Chateau Tronquoy in Bordeaux.
(Lost Mountain was also the name of RdVs flagship wine.)
Marcus Witten setting up for a tasting at Boxwood Estate Winery.Jared Soares
Her Quaker Run Cabernet Franc 2020 is a perfect example.
The state has some geological advantages that make it a hospitable landscape for a seemingly endless parade of grapes.
The winery is owned by the Zonin family, known for estates throughout Italy.
From left: Vines at Honah Lee Vineyard, in Gordonsville, owned by Michael Shaps Wineworks; Jim Law of Linden Vineyards, near Middleburg, checking on his grapes.Jared Soares
Paschinas roots are also revealed in the Barboursville portfolio.
Barboursville is the winery where I most strongly felt the richness and complexity of Virginias history.
Jefferson established two vineyards on his Monticello estate and cofounded Virginias first commercial wine company.
From left: Wine-themed art at Lost Mountain; tanks at Boxwood Estate Winery, in Middleburg, Virginia.Jared Soares
A new wing that was added to the existing Italianate structure increased the room count to 80.
Keswicks restaurant isMarigold by Jean-Georges,created by none other than Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
But the wine list is what stands out.
From left: A lunch of steak and potatoes at Early Mountain Vineyards, in Madison; a picnic paired with wine at Veritas, in Afton.Jared Soares
While its far-reaching, there are several key offerings from Virginia, including finally Linden Vineyards Hardscrabble Chardonnay.
I had been impatient to taste it since meeting Law, and it was well worth the wait.
The wine was balanced and minerally, crisp and juicy, with a lingering finish.
From left: A guest room at Salamander Middleburg; a guest room at Keswick Hall.Jared Soares
A native New Yorker, Shaps backs his endearing swagger with stellar wine-making credentials.
Raisin dEtre, his cheekily named sweet wine, is made from grapes dried in repurposed tobacco barns.
His Petit Manseng has flavors of grilled pineapple and mango.
A bird’s-eye view of Lost Mountain.Jared Soares
I ventured west of Charlottesville toVeritas, in the town of Afton.
Theres no other way to put it: on a balmy Friday afternoon, the joint was jumping.
Veritass rich and earthy Petit Verdot is also impressive.
Rows of vines at Michael Shaps Wineworks’ Honah Lee Vineyard.Jared Soares
To Jeffersons point, look at us now.
A bartender at Salamander Middleburg resort.Jared Soares
