A shiver crept up my spine as I stood among the remains of this former burial chamber.

This was my cue to return to the ground floor of Antwerp’s extraordinary Gothic cathedral.

Only in beer-loving Belgium, I thought to myself, would you find beers served inside a church.

Exterior of the A Rose Sena river boat on the Rhine River

Credit:Courtesy of A-Rosa Cruises

Indeed, there were babies, toddlers, older children, and teens on our weeklong October sailing.

The ship, which primarily operates in English and German, ensures that children are well taken care of.

The kids' club is a real treat for families.

From left: Morning coffee and juice in Antwerp; Historic buildings in Antwerp’s Grote Markt

From left: Morning coffee and juice in Antwerp; Historic buildings in Antwerp’s Grote Markt.Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure

But with overnight stays in ludicrously pretty Amsterdam and modern and buzzy Rotterdam, our itinerary excited us.

We explored Cologne’s ravishing twin-spire cathedral on a gloriously crisp fall day.

Lesser-known Dordrecht, one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands, felt like wandering a real-life fairytale.

A child in a robe at the pool and the sauna on board the A Rose Sena river boat

Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure

Instead, we made the breezy 10-minute journey via the local Waterbus service.

Our penultimate day aboard saw us spend a whole day sailing.

It was our chance to carve out time to relax.

A small boy in the kids club on board the A Rose Sena river boat

Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure

Another mealtime highlight was osso buco, a divine sauce-laden veal shank.

A nightly children’s buffet also featured popular dishes such as spaghetti bolognese and macaroni and cheese.

A highlight for Sebastian: the three homemade ice creams set out each evening, complete with various toppings.

A child making homemade pizza and games and books on board the A Rose Sena river boat

Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure

From left: Homes and a boat on a canal in Amsterdam; A creamy, curried mussel dish off the ship in Amsterdam

From left: Homes and a boat on a canal in Amsterdam; A creamy, curried mussel dish off the ship in Amsterdam.Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure