A shiver crept up my spine as I stood among the remains of this former burial chamber.
This was my cue to return to the ground floor of Antwerp’s extraordinary Gothic cathedral.
Only in beer-loving Belgium, I thought to myself, would you find beers served inside a church.
Credit:Courtesy of A-Rosa Cruises
Indeed, there were babies, toddlers, older children, and teens on our weeklong October sailing.
The ship, which primarily operates in English and German, ensures that children are well taken care of.
The kids' club is a real treat for families.
From left: Morning coffee and juice in Antwerp; Historic buildings in Antwerp’s Grote Markt.Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure
But with overnight stays in ludicrously pretty Amsterdam and modern and buzzy Rotterdam, our itinerary excited us.
We explored Cologne’s ravishing twin-spire cathedral on a gloriously crisp fall day.
Lesser-known Dordrecht, one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands, felt like wandering a real-life fairytale.
Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure
Instead, we made the breezy 10-minute journey via the local Waterbus service.
Our penultimate day aboard saw us spend a whole day sailing.
It was our chance to carve out time to relax.
Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure
Another mealtime highlight was osso buco, a divine sauce-laden veal shank.
A nightly children’s buffet also featured popular dishes such as spaghetti bolognese and macaroni and cheese.
A highlight for Sebastian: the three homemade ice creams set out each evening, complete with various toppings.
Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure
From left: Homes and a boat on a canal in Amsterdam; A creamy, curried mussel dish off the ship in Amsterdam.Kerry Spencer/Travel + Leisure