Music blasted from the pleasure cruises an occasional distraction, but one easy enough to forgive.

Everyone was ready to shake off the languor of the hot afternoon and welcome in the shade of night.

Our party of three, by contrast, included two bleary-eyed parents and a starving 8-year-old.

The exterior of the Peninsula Istanbul during sunset

Courtesy of The Peninsula Hotels

And multiple orders of crispy beef dumplings, umami bombs dunked in spicy butter and fragrant yogurt.

It gives Istanbul a purpose, a way to gather and evolve.

The Peninsula is the linchpin.

Interior of the The Peninsula Suite Living Room at the Peninsula Istanbul

EMRE DORTER/Courtesy of The Peninsula Hotels

The crisp service, the walkable location, and the top-tier amenities give it an edge.

The sprawling, subterranean spa has one of the best private hammams in the city.

Now with this new structure, the area is being given back to the public.

Views and exterior from the Peninsula Istanbul

Jacqui Gifford/Travel + Leisure

On the weekends we are witnessing thousands of people enjoying the waterfront, freely.

The old museum was housed in a not-so-attractive customs warehouse, demolished as part of the Galataport rehabilitation.

(For several years, the Modern was moved to temporary housing in Beyoglu).

Aerial view of Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul

Courtesy of Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul

The Restaurant Modern, with its sweeping waterfront terrace, makes the whole experience even more approachable.

Everyone goes with a different purpose.

I go for eats and drinks; some go shopping.

He worked in the port in 2014, when it was basically desolate.

But all these clashes and contrasts make it special.

How to Plan a Trip to Istanbul

T+L A-listerJonathan Aldercan bookIstanbuland a widerTurkeyitinerary.

Shopping is also an experience here, so do come early to enjoy."

Contact Jonathan Alder atjonathan.a@jonathanstravels.us.Of course, be sure topack carefully for any trip to Turkey.