The pre-dawn sky was a soft dove gray, while frost-stiffened grass crunched satisfyingly underfoot.
Snow-dusted mountains rose to either side, their sheer rock faces dwarfing our solitary camp.
Tourism being relatively uncommon, people were openly curious about our presence.
Credit:Heather Richardson/Travel + Leisure
Cricket is wildly popular in Pakistan and played everywhere, from the city streets to the mountain valleys.
But religion, she added, is more taboo.)
I could hear the distant rush of traffic far below, layered under birdsong.
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We jogged along the ridge line and back down to the carpark a warmup for the trips main event.
Yet, the tourism figures dont reflect this.
This is Baltistan, part of the Gilgit-Baltistan territory and sometimes called Little Tibet.
Not everyone is here for hiking: Pakistanis just like to relax, Alam told me, laughing.
The Nangma Valley is at a sweet spot, experiencing the first flushes of tourism and associated economic opportunities.
Previously, Ali said, operators claimed no one would want to come here.
But this year, by mid-June, around 40 treks had already departed.
(We saw another group, plus a solo hiker with a guide, during our trip.)
I thought our first campsite, a wooded flat between towering peaks, was something special.
Many peaks in the area remain unclimbed.
Aside from the cows, we had the place to ourselves.
The hiking wasnt exactly easy, but it was manageable for most moderately fit people.
Reaching camp, we were treated to tea and Chef Khadim Hussains chicken noodle soup.
Latif said Hussain has been to K2 dozens of times, including on winter expeditions.
So he really knows what to feed people at altitude, he explained.
Afternoons were for cricket, naturally.
I watched the porters politely soft-bowl their guests, saving the aggressive fastballs for each other.
Courtsy of Intrepid Travel
Courtesy of Intrepid Travel
Courtesy of Intrepid Travel
Courtsy of Intrepid Travel
Courtesy of Intrepid Travel
Courtesy of Intrepid Travel
Courtesy of Intrepid Travel
Courtsy of Intrepid Travel
Courtsy of Intrepid Travel
